Errr, do I want a downhill 1x setup or a typical MTB one?

[DancefloorTerrorist]

So,

Been building and riding Road Bikes for Years and know my way round them like the back of my hand (have a Mercx, Olagnero, Pilorget, De Rosa (and have always regretted selling the Daccordi even though it was slightly too long for me). ALso have my trusty GT aggressor for the trip to the station and back...

The road bikes are all fitted out illustriously (8 speed Campag graphite Chorus and 10 speed Century Centaur groupsets with lots of 80's Athena and Chorus bling on the pillorget cos it looks nice and I like it).

Moved out to Epsom and it's all dirt tracks and wooded glades aplenty so wanted to build up a decent mountain bike to be able to fly around on (road bikes and bridle ways don't mix).

Am building up an Orange C16R- so far has magura rim brakes stopping DP22's on Deore hubs. Rock Shox Judy's on the front, an X lite bar, I beam stem and Crank brothers cobalt seatpost.

I'm tempted by all the SRAM 1X 11spd stuff (or Shimano saint 10spd stuff) as I think it would be fun too build up the muscles in my right thumb while the left one withers away. Also, I just like the concept of controlling everything from one mech.

I know it would be great fun tearing down hills and launching myself through people's fences when the brakes fail (which they will), but the real question is, is the range going to be good enough to get back up the damned hill again? Should I take the leap or just opt for a safe XTR setup? the downhill stuff is intriguing me- but going downhill is only half the battle...

I should add, tore my acl behind my left kneecap about a year ago and had to go to physio and walk with a stick for about 6 months so slightly out of shape and wondering what set up would be the more forgiving.

 

[davez26]

Re:

I may get flamed here in Retro.
You've been out of the MTB loop to long. 1x is pretty much a standard MTB thing these days. In terms of range, you get 'most' of the range a 3x7,8,9 or whatever.
By most, you don't get the 44x12 or so, nor the depth of the 22x32, but you get enough to work with, and do you every really use those on the end range anyway? A 32 with an 11-42 cluster should do you just fine for gearing; I am no animal, and it's pretty much a staple here in Colorado.
Not that 3x was complicated, but 1x makes it simpler. Not just in shifting, but let's be real, who has ever not cursed a front changer?
I keep my Trek Y22 and 930SHX 3x beacause they are mostly stock, and I like them that way.
If I was building a classic frame, and just wanted to have fun, I'd build it up with a 1x, and ride it for the ride. The drivetrain is secondary to the frame for me.

 

[WandsworthRouleur]

Give it a go. You won’t know until you try — and it’s fairly easy to stick chainrings and an FD on if it doesn’t work out.

FWIW, I’ve got a single speed Orange P7 (32x16 I think), and I can get up most climbs on it. Certainly all of Bedgebury trail. Enter red route (including a climb called Cardiac — named for very obvious reasons). The only time I’ve had to get off and push was a really steep and very rocky climb last summer in the Dordogne.

You can still get some fairly wide range 8 speed Shimano cassettes (as high as 36) if you decide to go the retro route. If you go for modern greasing, then there’s really nothing to worry about. Hardly anyone seems to bother shifting with their left hand anymore. Too busy activating dropper posts and suspension lock out, I expect!