Yellow Hobbs winter beater of distinction (WBOD)
- Thread starter Jonny69
- Start date
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
Main headache/holdup at the moment is the shifters. I picked up some nice spoon-shaped Huret shifters which look appropriate for the frame, but they’re English threaded while the Campag shifter bosses are metric. I’m going to root through the pile of shifter bits to see if I’ve got anything I can substitute in:
However, if I can’t, I might have to re-think the front and rear mechanicals.
However, if I can’t, I might have to re-think the front and rear mechanicals.
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
Securing that canti stud. I had a look at re-swaging it, but because it’s partially behind the fork blade I can’t get anything on it that I was confident enough I could give a decent hit without also hitting the fork. Next best is resorting to a bit of materials science.
Aaaaaages ago (2016) I needed to re-seat the valve hole eyelet on an early Fiamme sprint rim for my Parkes Lightweight. Again, it was an awkward job, a little bit corroded and I wasn’t confident I could get an appropriate hit on it without also mangling the rim. I decided to set it in place with some aerospace permanent structural epoxy and I’m happy that repair will outlive the rest of the rim:
The canti stud is swaged, so it can’t pull out but it does spin. One of the key features of this adhesive is it’s incredibly strong in shear. So a thin fillet around the back edge of the canti stud should be sufficient to stop it spinning even when I tighten the canti bolt.
I cleaned it back to bare metal using a combination of Stanley knife blade and small screwdriver, then degreased with isopropanol:
Then dabbed the tiniest amount of adhesive round the edge using a tiny spreader. Rotated the stud a couple of times to hopefully work a bit under the swage too:
The dab of red paint is on the side of the stud that had more yellow paint on it. I figured that was probably the side facing the open side of the bracket (which got hit with the most paint when it was sprayed) and when the stud is that way round it’s also the most parallel with the other stud.
Now it sits for 24 hours to cure.
Aaaaaages ago (2016) I needed to re-seat the valve hole eyelet on an early Fiamme sprint rim for my Parkes Lightweight. Again, it was an awkward job, a little bit corroded and I wasn’t confident I could get an appropriate hit on it without also mangling the rim. I decided to set it in place with some aerospace permanent structural epoxy and I’m happy that repair will outlive the rest of the rim:
The canti stud is swaged, so it can’t pull out but it does spin. One of the key features of this adhesive is it’s incredibly strong in shear. So a thin fillet around the back edge of the canti stud should be sufficient to stop it spinning even when I tighten the canti bolt.
I cleaned it back to bare metal using a combination of Stanley knife blade and small screwdriver, then degreased with isopropanol:
Then dabbed the tiniest amount of adhesive round the edge using a tiny spreader. Rotated the stud a couple of times to hopefully work a bit under the swage too:
The dab of red paint is on the side of the stud that had more yellow paint on it. I figured that was probably the side facing the open side of the bracket (which got hit with the most paint when it was sprayed) and when the stud is that way round it’s also the most parallel with the other stud.
Now it sits for 24 hours to cure.
Similar threads
