Wippermann connex chains

Once every two weeks I use a Park Tool chain scrubber with some Swarfega 'oil and grease remover' to fully de-grease the drivetrain. I find the Swarfega, which is water based and so can be easily washed off, a lot less aggressive than the white spirit I used to use, and it doesn't creep past seals. It's also a hell of a lot cheaper than the bike-branded water based de-greasers.
I then dry the chain by running the chain backwards while holding a rag to it and then let the air do the rest before applying oil to the chain. The oil I'm using at the moment is an SAE-30 monograde, the same oil that I use for rebuilding and lubricating Sturmey Archer AW gear hubs.

And that's it really!

I'll add that this is the process I've used since just after the millennium. Around 2004 I ran Wippermann stainless chains, at £50 a pop, which seemingly never wore out. In fact until recently I used to boast that I had never worn a chain out, but now, chains are seemingly designed to be replaced every few months which leads to the presumption that cheap is now the only option.
 
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You could possibly try Sheldon Brown's more thorough cleaning system: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html :D

Seriously though, I use an engine degreaser, something like Gunk, or Comma Hyper Clean, which smells less unpleasant than Gunk, and then a bicycle chain lube, something like Finish Line Wet Lube: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fin ... p-prod1041

I'm not the most fanatical or frequent chain cleaner, but I seem to do rather better than 500 miles for a chain. Certainly with the Campagnolo chains anyway, the SRAM didn't last long.
 
That Sheldon, he's so slap-dash!
I think I remember that post from Sheldon which, I think, he posted as an April Fool's Joke, I still admired the engineering principles in it though which I think was Sheldon's true joke. I think secretly there are some who rather admired that post, ahem.

I've used Gunk in the past which most certainly works but it is seriously expensive. Swarfega is half the price and works equally as well, also in dilution, with no odour or unpleasantness. I don't think, I stand to be corrected, that the Gunk can be diluted without the chemistry being compromised. The next degreaser I'm going to try is Screwfix's no-nonsense degreaser. I get the impression it will be the same as the Swarfega but much cheaper. What I'll look to try out is whether it is as effective as Swarfega after being diluted and yet still be as effective.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense- ... 5ltr/88668

As far as lubrication is concerned I think anything reasonable works (as long as you don't use any of those bio-lubes or any crap from Muc-off). I used Finish Line's wet-lube for years and always found it effective. I moved to engine oils when I was a part owner in a bike shop and was looking for more cost effective solutions. I know Sheldon doesn't approve of engine oils but I believe his reasons aren't totally solid. I've found engine oils to be super reliable and it doesn't hurt to piggy-back an industry that can afford to spend billions on it's research.
 
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As far as lubrication is concerned I think anything reasonable works

I agree to some extent. As I explained to a friend that was commuting by bicycle in all weathers; even used engine oil would be better than using nothing, which is pretty much what he was doing, with consequently very short drive train life.

The weather and where you ride also has a big effect on chain life. Chains last ages in dry, dust free conditions. Whereas the canal path near me, that I often ride along, is covered in a fine grit that in turn covers the bike in a fine dust that feels very abrasive when you rub it between your fingers and probably makes an excellent grinding paste when mixed with oil or grease.

Chains last for absolutely ages in those chain cases you get on those old "Dutch bike" style roadsters, sadly, not much use on a bike with derailleurs.

IMG_4539.JPG
 
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So, I've pulled the trigger on a Wippermann 10sb because you only live once and they do look really nice. My orange five is my unicorn bike, my Eleanor and I have the £30 to spend on it. If it's no better, or not much better than a Shimano or kmc, I'll not bother again.
 
Madmax - Go for it, it certainly can't hurt, and at least that'll be a brand-itch scratched if you're not happy. If I had any advice it would just to keep a beady eye on the chain wear as the chain I had looked immaculate even after it was killing the rest of the drive-train.

Xerxes - now we're talking! The days when componentry was designed and built to last for generations and any extra weight required, in the form of a chaincase, was gladly accepted to ensure that longevity! I inherited a 1954 Rudge town bike from a College where the poor bike had been abused as the drunk student get-a-bout. The poor thing had lead a heavy life of abuse but when I took the chain-case off everything looked as new with no visible wear whatsoever on the chainring with just that lovely smell of ancient oil/grease of over a half century of oil dribbled through the brass oil port - and the chain itself was fine!
 
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