Whyte JW-2 shock removal advice please

You might find that if you wind the front preload off you'll have the front end bobbing as well. You need virtually no sag when you sit on the bike otherwise the "J shape" travel path of the fork won't work. It's the horizontal part of the initial travel that prevents bobbing. Once the axle starts to travel vertically it'll bob like a telescopic. I've found this by dropping the pressure on my front shock so now I keep it at 140psi. My Fox shocks on the PRST are much quieter than the X Fusions on the JW.
 
Managed to get bottom pin out. Top pin is fused to bushes. They rotate with it. Hammer (fairly forceful) wouldn’t shift it so plusgas overnight.......
 
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Well after a little thought I devised a puller along the lines of a rivnut tool using an ever increasing pile of washers as I slowly increased the length of pin protruding. Allen key stop bolt spinning. Spanner turns nut extracting shaft on end of bolt. And. Success!
 

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Air shock a huge improvement. Rear also set at higher pressure. Much less Bob from rear an zero dive at the front. Feels like you’ve set it too stiff but I aimed from a few holes and bumps and remarkably it coped really smoothly. Will take on a proper ride and report. Was worried it would struggle with my immenseness but so far.........
 

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The History Man":1rg9kp5g said:
Well after a little thought I devised a puller along the lines of a rivnut tool using an ever increasing pile of washers as I slowly increased the length of pin protruding. Allen key stop bolt spinning. Spanner turns nut extracting shaft on end of bolt. And. Success!

I like this... I think Enzo had a word for people like you...Garagista :cool:
 
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Well done with removing the pin. I notice your shock is mounted upside down compared to mine. Is that necessary for clearance?
 
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Duxuk":5olbyfzx said:
Well done with removing the pin. I notice your shock is mounted upside down compared to mine. Is that necessary for clearance?
Yes there’s a valve and lever that hit the mount otherwise.
 

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