What you don't dare do, people - Ti `98 Voodoo Loa

Top picture and bottom picture are two different mounting styles but not inclusive of each other. Both photos represent Shimano-style. The top picture is used for older down tube shift levers. The post sticking out acts as a stopper so the shifter lever does not over rotate causing a chain to skip the largest gear on the cassette/freewheel and wedge in between the spokes. You want the "over rotation tab" to point up toward the head tube when installing.

The lower picture is a flush-mount adapter to "fit" the contour of the downtube and works with newer shifter levers like Dura Ace 7400 for example. The non chrome side that integrates with the shifter is also designed with a stopper - the widest tooth. Kind of like a Shimano cassette where there is one wide tooth to ensure alignment on the freewheel. Idiot proof to get the shifter on one way only.

Gotcha, that all makes sense. I was a bit miffed when the tabbed washer didn't seat properly on the boss. It's square at the base of the boss but the welds kind of keep the washer from biting. But...I felt I was overdoing it with the thumbscrew so I just stopped before I ruined something. Better to find some guidance.
 
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I'm nearly there. The ebay purchased stem shipped with stripped faceplate 🤦‍♂️ so that needs sorting. Wheels being built first thing next week and then cables...

Meanwhile, I mock up.

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Sorted the downtube shifter and kitted it out with all black hardware.

I've got 3 seatpost options and a couple stems/bar options.

The previously pictured Nitto x Bluelug bars seemed great but after handling them and siting on the bike a bunch I realize the hooks are super short. When I get into the drop my hand nearly hangs off the back.

So I found a bargain on these Deda bars that were take-offs. They're modern obviously, not crazy wide but with a small amount of flair. Only problem is I lose the cross top Frogglegs due to clamp diameter. I could run a new set of Paul in line levers on this bar though =X

I liked this 3t stem for the rear facing bolts, clean I think, and the red 3t logo pops off for either stealth mode or to run a computer/gps mounted there. Lets hope the seller makes good and sends me a replacement faceplate.
 
Those taint-saver seats I always found to be uncomfortable, so good luck to you in that the geometry works out. They are not for all people and I think require physiology where crotch is somewhat wider than average. I could have had a dud seat too. At the beginning of rides it was 'ok' even with a bit of ball butter, but after 100 km...eh no bueno. Not to scare you away...just promise yourself that if you get rubbing or pain where your inner thigh meets your nuts and taint that you stop using it and find something else.

Regarding the bike overall; looking good. You are cutting the steerer tube or shimming? Any ideas on bar tape and color?
 
Those taint-saver seats I always found to be uncomfortable, so good luck to you in that the geometry works out
We'll see how it goes but I am pretty optimistic that it will be better than some of the vintage saddles I've ridden. I bought the smaller/narrower of the two options which should make sense given I'm smaller than average. Maybe your experience with that particular saddle was affected by one of several other variables?

Regarding the bike overall; looking good. You are cutting the steerer tube or shimming? Any ideas on bar tape and color?
thanks! Steerer tube will be cut once I feel confident enough to do it and I've got black tape from Grepp. I've never used a drop bar or any bar tape so I chose this based on the fact that it is natural fibers and washable. Doing my best to keep shit out of landfills wherever possible.
 
Thanks for the video regarding seats position. I'll have a look again at my road bikes soon and do a bit of rethinking. They are slated for spring maintenance anyhow.
 
Just finished watching your video recommendation. Informative and I recommend to others. You will have to report back on the comfort of your saddle there along with how your dude bits fair after a long ride or frequent riding. I am curious to know how this works out for you. Maybe I can find two used...
 
Went on the first ride today. The skewers I had planned, USE spin stix, didn't work great with these rear drops and the WTB cable hanger didn't work at all and probably wouldn't without several spacers. Oversight on my part. The current one is temp, routing still isn't ideal you can see. Need to find something I like better, suggestions for something that has a fair amount of drop? Skewers are m950 and I'll try to find a suitable replacement soon too.

Saddle feels great and the bike is a blast though it's kind of in this grey area of not being super capable off road while not being as good as I imagine an outright road bike would be. But, once I find the right road bike this will get some chunkier rubber and a little wider drops and should be good to go.


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specs as she sits


Frame:
1997 or 1998 (I think these are the only 2 years it was offered) Voodoo Loa, Titanium ~50cm

Fork/Headset:
Fork - Colnago steel straight blade, maybe from a Dream? I think Columbus tubes, ~700g

Crankset/Bottom Bracket:
Crankset - FRM cu2 Evo 172.5mm w/29 & 44 rings
Bottom Bracket - FRM integrated

Pedals:
Look S Track

Drivetrain/Cog/Chainring/Chain:
Cassette - Shimano XT CS-M8000 11spd 11-40
Chain - Shimano CN-HG901 - 11 Spe

Derailleurs/Shifters:
Front Derailleur - ULTEGRA FD-R8000
Rear Derailleur - Shimano XTR m9000
Brifters - Gevenalle gx 11spd
Downtube - Ofmega Colnago

Handlebars/Stem:
Bars - SOMA HWY One 400mm Grepp tape with Fizik gels
Stem - Look Ti 100mm

Saddle/Seatpost:
Saddle - Selle Italia SLR Boost Superflow Ti
Seatpost - American Classic Ti w/ DKG collar

Brakes:
Ciamillo cantis

Front Wheel/Hub/Tire:
Hoop - Pacenti Forza 32h
Hub - Chris King
Tire - Ultradynamico Cava Race 33

Rear Wheel/Hub/Tire:
Hoop - Pacenti Forza 32h, Asymmetrical
Hub - Chris King
Tire - Ultradynamico Cava Race 33

Accessories:
King Cage Ti cage, Nissen cables


a bit under 20lbs as pictured
 
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