What is the maximum tooth sprocket you could fit on the back using a Deore DX rear derailleur?

Btw what to do if the hanger attached to the frame gets cocked up? I am sure they stopped making them for the obvious reason that it was not a good idea to have it fused to the frame! So what happens if it did break or overzelous realingments make it weak and just come away from the frame with one too many adjustments!?

steel can bend with little issues (unless you go too far of course) - so for steel frames hangers are typically just part of the drive side frame dropout (and have been for almost a 100 years!)

replaceable hangers only came in as aluminium and then carbon bikes took over, as you can't bend alloy without risk of it just breaking and even more so for carbon obviously (this has more to do with risk of accidental bending than deliberate - ie crashes, etc)

in terms of hanger alignment - you need to do this with a proper gauge - not by 'eyeballing it'. If you bent it out by 3mm thats sounds like far too much (if it was indeed out of alignment)

videos:


these gauges tend to very spendy - you could build one of course but it needs to be reasonably rigid and to properly screw in to the hanger for it to be of any use. It allows you to determine if the hanger bolt axis is properly tangential to the wheel (and therefore presumably the frame) by measuring the relative offset between the hanger bolt axis and the rim at various points around the wheel - this should be consistent around the entire circumference if the hanger is aligned

heres RJ the bike guys video on making one;


but again - PLEASE GO TO A BIKE SHOP, before you break something badly - seriously.
 
Screw a rear wheel into the frames mech hanger, it will give you an easy indicator of bentness, (keep the tyre off).
The screw thread is the same?

Will this be good enough for thumb shifters without one of these convoluted tools? What will I be looking for?

Having said that I don't know if I have a non bent wheel to use to check :LOL:
 
I suspect however you have some other major problem at the root of the fundamental shifting issues

but without some pictures, this is, as others have pointed out, a massive waste of everyones' time. I won't be trying to help further unless you can actually be arsed to post some 🧐
 
Will this be good enough for thumb shifters without one of these convoluted tools?

Regardless of the shifter the mech will be out of alignment and it will jump or rattle. The advantage of the thumbie is that you can switch it to friction to compensate for poor adjustment. But if the whole thing is out of alignment nothing will correct for it. The chain will be trying to go round a corner or twist and no improvement in shifter position can remove that.

Seriously, stop now. Take it to a shop and get somebody who knows what they are doing to sort it out.
 
indexing on thumbies works exactly the same as any other shifter - the indexing relies on an accurate cable pull for each click to move the RD the right amount. there is no extra latitude you magically get with thumbies

smaller number of sprockets tends to be less finicky than higher though (ie a 7 speed system will be easier than an 11 speed as the more gears that are stuffed in there the more accurate the pull needs to be)
 

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