STEALTHY BUILD - Dekerf Team SoftTail

[TOMAS]

Re: Re:

If you just want to stop it getting worse for now, clear nail polish on the peeling edges will help reseal it.
Alternatively gently wet'n'dry the edges down and spray laquor should be fine I would think.

that's exactly what i'm thinking, forget the nail varnish idea as too many small areas for that and will still look tatty, i'm currently at the wheel re-lacing stages of lockdown, flatting and spraying this frame will keep me occupied for a few more hours lol. As I say i'll try in inconspicuous area first as a test, but shame when im trying to find as nice a components as possible for this to then bolt them all to a frame with lacquer peel...

 

[TOMAS]

Re:

Bit more work on it today, installed a lovely WTB headset that I've had in storage a few months waiting for the right build, also some locally sourced M950 parts that i've stripped and cleaned out, actually never stripped down a rear mech to the extent of this one, even to point of prying seals off the jockey bearings, clearing out the crud and repacking with grease, these are all tip-top bits now

 

[1552]

Re:

This is shaping up nicely

 

[prezza]

Re:

Re the laquer I’d use a fine wet and dry with water and feather the damaged laquer edges back. Also rub lightly on the exposed paint you are to cover as the reason it’s peeled could be that the paint wasn’t lightly roughed before laquer applied.

Really take your time and use water with the wet and dry and you’ll be fine.

I used this method on some peeling laquer on edge of a wheel arch on an old Carlos Sainz celica GT4 I had years ago (miss that car :cry: ) and you couldn’t tell at all when done.

When using rattle cans, before shaking and spraying stand the tin in a bowl of boiling water for 5 minutes first and it really helps mix the contents.

Use nice thin coats of laquer ....

Looking great!

 

[d8mok]

Re:

Why not go see Vernon barker and ask him to lacquer it for you ? I bet he wouldn’t charge much at all and I think he’s still working as i saw his door open other day.

 

[TOMAS]

Re: Re:

Re the laquer I’d use a fine wet and dry with water and feather the damaged laquer edges back. Also rub lightly on the exposed paint you are to cover as the reason it’s peeled could be that the paint wasn’t lightly roughed before laquer applied.

Really take your time and use water with the wet and dry and you’ll be fine.

I used this method on some peeling laquer on edge of a wheel arch on an old Carlos Sainz celica GT4 I had years ago (miss that car :cry: ) and you couldn’t tell at all when done.

When using rattle cans, before shaking and spraying stand the tin in a bowl of boiling water for 5 minutes first and it really helps mix the contents.

Use nice thin coats of laquer ....

Looking great!

Cheers for the advice, as I said earlier... I find it hard to believe that the lacquer is peeling so bad when its been painted by someone with a rep like Argos... anyhows, I fear that with abuse/use the rest of the laquer will slowly peel, it really wants a full strip and re-paint if I were going all-out, however to keep costs down will look to attempt to recover the peeling areas with the methods above, yeah knew about the warming lacquer tip too, might just leave the cans in my airing cupboard for a couple of days before use will also very gently warm the areas to be painted with a couple of passes with a hairdryer too, seconds before spraying the lacquer too to try and help it adhere maybe? lots of thin coats.

@ D8mok - who is Vernon Barker that you mention and where does he work? I know quite a few bodyshop guys in my local area who could probably do it for me also, however I like the idea of taking up some of my many hours of spare time at present to complete the job myself

 

[jimwise68]

Both of those look lovely. The rear seat stay/wishbones remind me of Voris Dixon's work on VDC BMXs.

 

[Rampage]

Re:

I rebuilt one of these years ago.
The titanium tube is 22.2 OD x 1mm wall. Cutting down some titanium bars is the easiest way to get this part. I can’t remember if it’s bonded or pressed in to the cup it sits in though.

 

[d8mok]

Re: Re:

Re the laquer I’d use a fine wet and dry with water and feather the damaged laquer edges back. Also rub lightly on the exposed paint you are to cover as the reason it’s peeled could be that the paint wasn’t lightly roughed before laquer applied.

Really take your time and use water with the wet and dry and you’ll be fine.

I used this method on some peeling laquer on edge of a wheel arch on an old Carlos Sainz celica GT4 I had years ago (miss that car :cry: ) and you couldn’t tell at all when done.

When using rattle cans, before shaking and spraying stand the tin in a bowl of boiling water for 5 minutes first and it really helps mix the contents.

Use nice thin coats of laquer ....

Looking great!

Cheers for the advice, as I said earlier... I find it hard to believe that the lacquer is peeling so bad when its been painted by someone with a rep like Argos... anyhows, I fear that with abuse/use the rest of the laquer will slowly peel, it really wants a full strip and re-paint if I were going all-out, however to keep costs down will look to attempt to recover the peeling areas with the methods above, yeah knew about the warming lacquer tip too, might just leave the cans in my airing cupboard for a couple of days before use will also very gently warm the areas to be painted with a couple of passes with a hairdryer too, seconds before spraying the lacquer too to try and help it adhere maybe? lots of thin coats.

@ D8mok - who is Vernon Barker that you mention and where does he work? I know quite a few bodyshop guys in my local area who could probably do it for me also, however I like the idea of taking up some of my many hours of spare time at present to complete the job myself

He’s a bike builder and painter based in Dronfield. He’s not expensive at all and fairly decent. Not Argos standard but also not their price. He’s painted me a few and always a nice finish.

 

[TOMAS]

Re:

Pressed in the headset today and managed to obtain this Bomber Z2 BAM fork up from a good bloke/fellow member on here... as you can see from the pics it's hardly seen any use, despite this, as I always do, I completely stripped it out...

Never smelt shock oil like it in my life, absolutely STUNK for some reason... anyhow that's been disposed of and replaced with fresh uprated 10wt @ oil height of 40mm to suit my portly frame. When it arrived it came with shock boots... not sure if these were factory fit or aftermarket as all the other bombers I've ever got hold of came without boots, these will really only ever see light duties so i'm thinking of keeping them off for now, might also swapout all the bolts for gold Ti affairs (crown and bridge) but depends how silly I start going with this build...

I've got a stem enroute from ebay, well actually a choice of 2, I just can't decide on which bar I should go for. Being a 97/98 build I was wondering if I could get away with something a tad longer than 560mm, say 580-600 would be ideal, maybe Titec or Syncros if I can find any. Also need to hunt out a post to match, 27.2mm but very little about that are black, high end and VGC at the moment...