Sit Up and Beg

The old bar braces can be a great help when it comes to rescuing the aesthetics. You can easily get away with a 40mm rise, which should solve most people's problems.
 
GrahamJohnWallace":a4wsxjvr said:
These lightweight BMX mini-bars are very close to the design of the CW mini-bars used on the original Cleland Aventura bikes from 1982-84.

http://www.sourcebmx.com/product/bmx-ra ... 6860.shtml

Zombie thread!
Nice to see it re-born - I had forgotten about that great frame that LGF posted.

GJW, those bars are for "Expert" BMX racer class, which means young teens age-group (IIRC). The rise is the same as the steel bars that S&M make for the "Cruiser" BMX class (Cruiser meaning 24 or 26-inch wheels and ridden by heavyweight riders, veterans etc.). So I'd be happier with their longevity. And they're steel. And shiny. And (importantly) a LOT wider.

http://www.sandmbikes.com/all-products/bars

(Just be careful when Googling "S&M bar") :shock: :shock:
 
Hi DM, Thanks for the info and links.

I guess it all boils down to the what you use the bars for and how much weight is an issue.

I have never heard of any structural failures of the original CW Mini-Bars used on Clelands since 1982 and these were similar in terms of size construction methods, gauge and grade of aluminium alloy used.

However, with so much of the riders weight over the rear wheel, Clelands are very different dynamically from most other off-road bicycles. With a Cleland the greatest structural load is probably during out of the saddle climbing as you pull hard on the bars with every pedal stroke. Whilst using this technique you can easy to pull arm or shoulder muscles. If you ram the bike into something immovable then the the bars tend to rotate in the stem clamp instead of bending and any dynamic loads are greatly reduced because of the very low pressure tyres.

As for bar width there is no point in having wide bars on a Cleland as the tyres are so soft and squidgy that the front tyre has to twist beyond 60 degrees before any noticeable torque is transmitted through to the handlebars. Also, wide bars wouldn't easily fit between narrowly spacs trees etc.

This is not to say that you don't have a point in regards to a heavy and aggressive rider fitting these bars to a standard mountain bike. In such a case, tougher but heavier steel bars could indeed be safer.
 
i used to get bad neck ache and messed around with bars and stem heights. then i realised the peak on my helmet was obstructing my vision forcing me to bring my head up away from my chest and making my neck sore. i removed the peak gained about 30% more vision and no more neck ache. i think thats why road helmets dont have peaks thinking about it.
 
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