Single speed ghetto style

Re: Re:

groovyblueshed":rnw2ll6o said:
...even that's ok as you can limit the derailleur movements. The front mech will work as a very necessary chain keeper/retention device. I found I had to keep my front shifter on cabled up with the front mech so that the mech was held in the right position – wedging a tube of Pritt Stick between the frame and front mech allowed for getting the position right and so that the cable/shifter movement was limited.

Thanks!

I was planning on using a short gear cable, with the cable end stop in the frame stop on the downtube, and running down to the mech. Same with the rear.

I'll try that out

Sorry for thread hi-jack. As you were

Mike
 
Re: Re:

Mike Muz 67":27177pag said:
I'm planning on converting a geared bike to ss for an event.

Normal sprocket and spacers, rear mech adjusted for just that gear. Front mech adjusted for just the middle. Take the shifters off. Any issues trying that, folks?

Mike
Hi Mike
I did that for one of the boys and it worked fine , i used and old rear mech with a bit of inner cable in it to trim the chain line :D
Paul
 
Re: Re:

Mike Muz 67":29ycidsy said:
groovyblueshed":29ycidsy said:
...even that's ok as you can limit the derailleur movements. The front mech will work as a very necessary chain keeper/retention device. I found I had to keep my front shifter on cabled up with the front mech so that the mech was held in the right position – wedging a tube of Pritt Stick between the frame and front mech allowed for getting the position right and so that the cable/shifter movement was limited.

Thanks!

I was planning on using a short gear cable, with the cable end stop in the frame stop on the downtube, and running down to the mech. Same with the rear.

I'll try that out

Sorry for thread hi-jack. As you were

Mike

...no worries and my apologies too to the OP for also hi-jacking their thread. Do you mean having the mechs cabled to the exact length without both shifters? It's always worth experimenting and seeing what set up works...
 
Re: Re:

groovyblueshed":20ac9se5 said:
Mike Muz 67":20ac9se5 said:
groovyblueshed":20ac9se5 said:
...even that's ok as you can limit the derailleur movements. The front mech will work as a very necessary chain keeper/retention device. I found I had to keep my front shifter on cabled up with the front mech so that the mech was held in the right position – wedging a tube of Pritt Stick between the frame and front mech allowed for getting the position right and so that the cable/shifter movement was limited.

Thanks!

I was planning on using a short gear cable, with the cable end stop in the frame stop on the downtube, and running down to the mech. Same with the rear.

I'll try that out

Sorry for thread hi-jack. As you were

Mike

...no worries and my apologies too to the OP for also hi-jacking their thread. Do you mean having the mechs cabled to the exact length without both shifters? It's always worth experimenting and seeing what set up works...

Yes that's it. I'll put up a couple of photos when I've done it.
 
Re:

Ha! That's just too easy! :D

I've tried this for a few of my typical commutes sticking to a mid range sprocket to get a feel for living with one speed. Although it's a commute, it does take in a variety of terrains – long flats, harsh climbs, descents, up and down off-road trail sections. Overall, it didn't seem too bad apart from the harsh climbs. Although getting rolling is slightly slower, you soon build up speed and catch everyone up – I rarely start off in the lowest gear anyway. Thinking about the profusion and complexity of gears we used to have back in the day, I only seem to use only 3 of a 7speed on one ring.
 
Re: Re:

xxnick1975":34aughyr said:
Why don't you just leave it as is and not chAnge gear!

I'm restricted to one gear for this race. I could just use a small piece of inner gear cable at the back, and adjust to the sprocket I need. I know at one point I will go to change gear accidentally if the shifters are still there.

Mike
 
Re:

If your rear mechs got a barrel adjuster you dont even need to use a frame mounted cable stop for your cable. Put a short bit of cable with the cable nipple in the barrel adjuster. Align the mech with the sprocket and tighten down the cable. Then make fine tuning adjustments with the barrel adjuster. Old short cage road mechs I find best for tensioners as they have less lateral movement. 1/8th pitch BMX chain is also good for single speed as they have less lateral flex so less chance of jumping off and the wider link spacing allows more flexibility if your chainring sprocket alignment is not perfect.

I've been bodging single speed mtb's for nearly 20 years :roll:
 
Re: Re:

velomaniac":fqqvvjrp said:
If your rear mechs got a barrel adjuster you dont even need to use a frame mounted cable stop for your cable. Put a short bit of cable with the cable nipple in the barrel adjuster. Align the mech with the sprocket and tighten down the cable. Then make fine tuning adjustments with the barrel adjuster. Old short cage road mechs I find best for tensioners as they have less lateral movement. 1/8th pitch BMX chain is also good for single speed as they have less lateral flex so less chance of jumping off and the wider link spacing allows more flexibility if your chainring sprocket alignment is not perfect.

I've been bodging single speed mtb's for nearly 20 years :roll:

Was gonna ask for a pic of this but have just twigged how you've done it – that's a genius bodge! Do you run this single set up without the front mech fitted to the bike (as a chain keeper) ?
 
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