Show us yer FSR's

[jetmaroo]

Re: bearings

Ahh yes I've actually checked out that thread before, interesting reading. For cost I'm intending on using 608rs (if I remember rightly) bearings instead and can utilise some of the original bushes but yes I will have to machine some parts too.

 

[jetmaroo]

SHARKFIN ALERT!!!!

I know lots of you guys are on the lookout for these. One has just popped up on a very popular online auction site here in the UK. Item number is 151396743222

PS its not me selling it I'm not spamming!

 

[Giggity]

Right now, all the rear pivots points are good and tight on mine. This is part of the reason I bought it. This winter sometime, I want to tear it down completely and go through it all. This may include bearings. Just depends on what condition I find things in there. If it's still tight as it is right now, I may just clean and relube everything and just let it be.

Right now, the first thing that needs attention is the shock. I looked at PinkBike and found a few things that should work. I am going to check my local source first ans see what they have. They, http://www.mtbsuspensionexperts.com/, may very well have something that I can use and can get cheap.

 

[twain]

Re: bearings

Ahh yes I've actually checked out that thread before, interesting reading. For cost I'm intending on using 608rs (if I remember rightly) bearings instead and can utilise some of the original bushes but yes I will have to machine some parts too.

would those bearings be for the A-Links and seat stays? would be interested to know about the alinks - you said you could utilise the same bushings?? could you elaboarate on that? if it means less bushing i need to get manufactured, the better!!!

 

[jetmaroo]

OK the bearings are 688rs not 608rs as I wrongly said earlier, so they're 16mm outside dia. 8mm inside diameter and a width of 5mm. I'm using two at the end of each chainstay where it meets the seatstay by the back wheel dropout. I've had to machine a little alloy collar / spacer (16mm o/d x about 12mm I/d x 5mm thick which will be bonded into each of these bearing housings to provide a stop for each of the bearings. As the bearings have an inside diameter of 8mm the original alloy bush fits perfectly. At present two nylon washers 22mm o/d, 8mm I/d and about .75mm thick flank the bearing housing. I might change this at a later date to allow sealing but that would involve making some stainless top hat shaped washers and shortening the original 8mm diameter bushes and I didn't want to do down that route in case I wanted to revert to stock setup.
At the top of the seatstay where it meets the shock link I'm using four 688rs's. Here two sit in tandem at each side of the chain stay top. I've turned a bit of alloy bar down so it fits snug between the inside faces of the link and a shoulder on each end for the bearings to sit against so they can't slide too far in. Imagine a cylinder with narrower bits on each end. Again I will initially use Nylon washers to prevent lateral movement to start with. I will post pics or diagrams at a later date but its late and some bits are at work.

 

[twain]

OK the bearings are 688rs not 608rs as I wrongly said earlier, so they're 16mm outside dia. 8mm inside diameter and a width of 5mm. I'm using two at the end of each chainstay where it meets the seatstay by the back wheel dropout. I've had to machine a little alloy collar / spacer (16mm o/d x about 12mm I/d x 5mm thick which will be bonded into each of these bearing housings to provide a stop for each of the bearings. As the bearings have an inside diameter of 8mm the original alloy bush fits perfectly. At present two nylon washers 22mm o/d, 8mm I/d and about .75mm thick flank the bearing housing. I might change this at a later date to allow sealing but that would involve making some stainless top hat shaped washers and shortening the original 8mm diameter bushes and I didn't want to do down that route in case I wanted to revert to stock setup.
At the top of the seatstay where it meets the shock link I'm using four 688rs's. Here two sit in tandem at each side of the chain stay top. I've turned a bit of alloy bar down so it fits snug between the inside faces of the link and a shoulder on each end for the bearings to sit against so they can't slide too far in. Imagine a cylinder with narrower bits on each end. Again I will initially use Nylon washers to prevent lateral movement to start with. I will post pics or diagrams at a later date but its late and some bits are at work.

sounds good - pics would help immensly to unserstand how you've arranged these parts.
i need to work out washers/bushes properly to get mine finished. got all the bearings installed, just need the bushes and washers.

my only other niggling annoyance is the main pivot bearing setup - would like to see yours if thats possible? (this is the main pivot that sists behind the Bottom bracket housing).

 

[Giggity]

Being a noob, not sure if these people are commonly known in the MTB community but I have used them for over 20 years for other apps. http://www.bocabearings.com/

Edit......Nevermind. I just saw their ad banner at the top of the page.

 

[Giggity]

Just wondering.....did/does anyone else make linkage for the old FSR's other than BETD?

 

[S-M]

Re:

Mine is starting to get a bit too floppy for my tastes and it has a creak I can't seam to trace, I am convinced its the knackered old bushings causing the problem.

The cost of the betd stuff is too expensive to swallow for such an old bike, but it looks like the only real option to anybody without a lathe.

 

[valve bouncer]

Just wondering.....did/does anyone else make linkage for the old FSR's other than BETD?

Yeah, Mountain Speed made one but rare as rocking horse manure. Iirc they were made in the US so you might be able to find one.