Setting up V brakes *sorted*

development_cycle":2ljau9c5 said:
It's got nothing to do with the fact that you've got what look like canti levers pulling V arms has it?

Yes, they are canti levers (well, shifter/lever combo), but I have always had them set up to have both arms moving.

The only difference in performance I have noticed over the V levers on my LTS is the feel. The canti levers create a more 'spongy' feel.

However, I have never had problems setting them up :?
 
Tis all in the wee adjustment screws my man as the chaps above have said. Takes a bit of fettling - loosen one, tighten the other, go too far, start again, forget which way the screws go, make it worse, throw screwdriver, have a cup of tea, come back, half a turn and voila, it will work! Declare yourself a V-brake set-up god and then don't do it for another 6 mths and return to square one.
 
Imperfections in the forks construction or damage received over their life can slightly bend the dropouts so that the wheel sits very slightly to one side or the other resulting in the brake block resting on the rim and thus not moving.

Alternatively the tension in the offending spring has failed or weakened, screw tensioner should adjust it though. Failing that source a new spring.

Cheers
 
Ok, after my TT session tonight I shall be mostly swearing, scaring the children, making the baby cry, annoying the wife, throwing things, drinking tea, banging my head on the shed walls and hopefully making it work....... ;)
 
the number of times i have had one arm stick a little, got the old philips-head out and turned the adjuster screws only to find I have turned them the wrong way and made it worse. I really am stoopid sometimes ;)
 
Geoff":42gmxtbr said:
I have to say I'm somewhat less precise when it comes to adjusting the spring tension on my DXs. Release spring, bend it a bit, re-engage spring. Probably a big no-no but it works fine for me...

Works fine for me too - I think it's the best way for the "coarse" adjustment, and then just use the adjuster screws for the finishing touches.

But then I only have one bike that has V brakes now (well, my wifes' bike actually) - give me discs (or even HS33's) any day.
 
One other thing to consider, can the plate with the spring hole move? Sometimes this is the case (early pace forks are like this), you fasten it in place when you tighten the brake stud up. If this is the case the it may not be in an equivalent position to the other side.

p.s. RTS is getting there, looks much better with the Mag 20's ... next step - lose the V brakes ;)
 
stevet1":2pbavsfp said:
p.s. RTS is getting there, looks much better with the Mag 20's ... next step - lose the V brakes ;)

Thanks :cool:

I have a lovely set of Deore LX canti's that would look great, but alas I can't find the RTS rear brake rocker :( I thought I'd found it a month or so ago, but no, turned out to be another random brake part :roll:

Ho hum, the canti's are now bound for Mrs GT's new Backwoods!
 
Lots of crazy ideas in this thread. Sorry guys. :shock: :D

Pickle, your adjuster screws are in need of attention. Turn the sticking arm's screw clockwise to increase spring tension until the shoe pulls away from the rim, or conversely, turn the other side arm's screw counterclockwise to relieve spring tension and back that shoe away from the rim. If your wheel is dished properly and the brake arms are installed with the spring pin in the same choice of the three holes on the brake stud on both sides, then the spring tension adjustment screws ahould be in roughly the same place on both brake arms.

Good luck brutha! :D
 

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