Setting up gears

[tintin40]

Just stick to collecting ears now............

:shock: :shock: Are you a 'Ed gein' type of serial killer

 

[Lysander]

Naw, proper Old Skool Bundy, me.........

 

[tintin40]

DONE IT :shock: :shock: :shock: numb fingers. I had the cable the wrong side of the mech clamp bolt

Now i love my vintage Suntour again

 

[marin man]

<< for you those tintin

 

[tintin40]

<< for you those tintin

most of the day i've been battling with it. I should have know better at my age


Now to sell some modern off

 

[hydorah]

Deraileurs

Last time I had a battle with a rear deraileur, my problem was that I needed to a adjust the B tension

I had my deraileur cable tension spot on but the shifting was slow with a lot of that inter-shift clanking you hear on BSOs as you sail by them on your awesome retro steed

Anyway, B tension is the screw that sits against the tang on your deralieur hanger

If the clearance between your top pulley and your cassette is too large the rear mech doesn't pull the chain across enough to shift smoothly

I know you solved your issue, just chucking that into the hat in case someone stumbles accross this thread in the future

 

[Arran]

Ahhh, the old "cable anchored on the wrong sde of the anchor bolt trick". Trap for young players, that...

Here's my step-by-step for rear gear setup:

• 1 ) Ensure your derailleur & hanger are straight
  2 ) Adjust your H-screw so that your chain falls nicely on to your smallest cassette/freewheel cog without hesitation when cable tension is dumped. (i.e. wind the H-screw in until you experience hesitation & back it off a 1/4 of a turn)
  3 ) Adjust your L-screw so that your chain climbs onto you r lowest (largest) gear without hesitation when the rear derailleur cable is pulled tight (i.e. wind the L-screw in until you experience hesitation & back it off a 1/4 of a turn)
  4 ) Wind your derailleur barrel adjuster 1 1/2 turns out from all the way in & ensure your cable is firmly attached to your derailleur
  5 ) Shift up to your second-highest gear (second smallest cog). Slacken your cable tension until you hear the clatter of a poorly adjusted derailleur
  6 ) Add cable tension, counting the 1/4 turns until you hear the clatter at the other end of adjustment in that gear. The # of turns you have counted is called your FRA (Finite Range of Adjustment). Shimano 9-speed FRA on a mechanically sound drvetrain should be ~ 9 1/4 turns.
  7 ) Back the barrel adjuster of 50% of the turns it took to go from poor adjustment to poor adjustment
  8 ) Shift into your largest cog and smallest chainring. Adjust your B-screw in or out so that your derailleur guide pulley just clears the cog teeth

Done-ski!

 

[hydorah]

Ahhh, the old "cable anchored on the wrong sde of the anchor bolt trick". Trap for young players, that...

Here's my step-by-step for rear gear setup <cut>

Nice one Arran!

First read through I was like: WTF that's over complicated - FRA? 9 speed? eh?

I thought I'll write mine

But second read I thought hang about that IS what I do but without thinking about it

But I use 3rd or 4th as my range finder dependent upon 6/7/8 speed drive train

9 speeds? never had a 9 speed bike!

My B tension clearance discovered through a process of detailed hueristic analysis (OK trial and error) is about 2mm between the bottom of the casette an the chain wrap rond the top pulley

Not precise, you can just eyeball it, so again about the same as you

Good job, good use of the list tag as well!

 

[Arran]

My B tension clearance discovered through a process of detailed hueristic analysis (OK trial and error) is about 2mm between the bottom of the casette an the chain wrap rond the top pulley
...

Thanks for the props. I've found that generally speaking, re; the B-screw, the closer you can get to the low cog with the guide pulley (without contacting it), the better your derailleur will push & pull the chain across the higher (smaller) cogs. It's also what the big 'S' recommends.