Im sending a frame to a member and needed to box it up.
The frame- A GT Zaskar race 2001 15"
Using some big boxes from a led tv i cut and taped one to fit but even reinforced with extra tape, I still felt it was rather flimsy.
A route would be to go to the local bike shoppes and get an old bike or frame box but there isnt really a regular shop i use, so they always want you to buy something which usually is an innertube or equivalent(Fair enough really) About a fiver or 5.50. Fair enough as said but its still annoying and boxes arent always available.
Being a furniture maker, i thought i could make a box for the same cost as the shop would want me to spend, maybe a tiny bit more, but if i was careful and re-machined scrap, probably less :?
The simplest box to make is flat panels with batons all around then so they can be stapled and glued together(batons increase gluing area,therfore stronger and reinforces the thinner board, and the 25mm staples are the mechanical insurance)
One sheet of 6mm MDF @ 8'x4' Bought from B&Q at they have a wall panel saw and make the cuts for free.
6mm is reasonably light but its firm so it doesnt really compress to bend very much,even if you put weight in the middle of an unsupported piece. Whereas hardboard which is thinner and therefore lighter does, making it unsuitable really but i was also of the notion that this would also be kept as storage of a/the frame or transporting it, so it should at leade be robust not to crumble and split the ward some thin board materials do.
Marine ply would be ideals but its way heavier
You understand the approximate sizes so get b&q to slice it into (for this) 4 pieces 2'x4'. Makes it far easier to transport in a small car and easier to handle and cut to the correct final sizes in a small environment(No. not inside the car)
From the pic you can see all the batons that reinforce all the joints are cut diagonally. This allows you keep the large gluing area but lose half the weight. You also get 2 pieces fron the one baton so its cost effective too.
Laying one of the 4'x2' boards on the bench i sit the frame on it and mark its widest points at the stays/dropouts. the bottom bracket and the headtube, along with the overall length.
It was always my intention to line the entire box with medium density foam(blue) I do upholstery too so have all this stuff lying around.
Working at 1" thick foam and there is 20mm baton in there, i mark out 1" beyond my original widths plus about 12mm as the baton is slit therefore wont impede really but you add a bit for safety's sake
Cut twice measure once :? is that it ?
PLUS the 6mm for the board.
I removed the hanger as it affords another 1" off the length (Yes its packed inside )
When i do the other side I end up with a large wedge shape.
Happy with it ? Glue the foam on. I use an electric knife to cut foam from larger piece. Pro ones cost hundreds and it does not a bad job for 9.99 out of argos.
Its tricky to make the first part gluing the first side on so get a long suffering loved one to help you. . Once both sides are on you can fit the front and back panels. The front i made in solid pine as its narrow and i can use thicker to give the gluing area,but also takes the big staples better, the back is the same as top and bottom. A flat panel with baton running around its edge.
Now its just a matter of putting the frame in. Which i might add i a good snug as a bug in a rug type of fit and screwing down the lid. Screw it down because otherwise the only way to open it is with a saw
The pics are pre fettling, which included rounding off all the edges and making sure the staples werent proud. Im going to duct tape all edges and corners mostly to disguise the staples though it adds a bit of handling protection protection on corners and exposed edges
I weigh about 13 stone, im confident yuou could drop this thing from 30'+ and it would be fine
The last thing i did, well the last 2 things i did was to add a couple of internal batons screwed on at right angles to further reinforce should weight be placed on the side of it and the strip along its length is something that doesnt protrude too much but gives you something to put you fingers under when carrying it. Smooth as silk wedge shaped mdf is not easy to keep hold of. Ill taper it at the ends so it protrudes even less
I Felt that if i made a handle for it the courier might consider or price it as a case or crate of something . Still a concern if anyone knows ? I'll glue sheets of cardboard to it if it is and disguise it
Toyed with little disc wheels on one corner, but maybe overdoing it a bit there
My total outlay was £9.99 for the sheet material and everything material wise i had from finding it out at the bin, glue and staples cost nothing really and i need them so have lots. Foam was again salvaged from something ,its sat in the stores for ages, nice its gone to a good use.
Ive just under 1/2 sheet of 6mm left so would guess the material i used cost £6 Much like the cost an lbs would make me pay if i bought yet another innertube or patch kit.
The frame- A GT Zaskar race 2001 15"
Using some big boxes from a led tv i cut and taped one to fit but even reinforced with extra tape, I still felt it was rather flimsy.
A route would be to go to the local bike shoppes and get an old bike or frame box but there isnt really a regular shop i use, so they always want you to buy something which usually is an innertube or equivalent(Fair enough really) About a fiver or 5.50. Fair enough as said but its still annoying and boxes arent always available.
Being a furniture maker, i thought i could make a box for the same cost as the shop would want me to spend, maybe a tiny bit more, but if i was careful and re-machined scrap, probably less :?
The simplest box to make is flat panels with batons all around then so they can be stapled and glued together(batons increase gluing area,therfore stronger and reinforces the thinner board, and the 25mm staples are the mechanical insurance)
One sheet of 6mm MDF @ 8'x4' Bought from B&Q at they have a wall panel saw and make the cuts for free.
6mm is reasonably light but its firm so it doesnt really compress to bend very much,even if you put weight in the middle of an unsupported piece. Whereas hardboard which is thinner and therefore lighter does, making it unsuitable really but i was also of the notion that this would also be kept as storage of a/the frame or transporting it, so it should at leade be robust not to crumble and split the ward some thin board materials do.
Marine ply would be ideals but its way heavier
You understand the approximate sizes so get b&q to slice it into (for this) 4 pieces 2'x4'. Makes it far easier to transport in a small car and easier to handle and cut to the correct final sizes in a small environment(No. not inside the car)
From the pic you can see all the batons that reinforce all the joints are cut diagonally. This allows you keep the large gluing area but lose half the weight. You also get 2 pieces fron the one baton so its cost effective too.
Laying one of the 4'x2' boards on the bench i sit the frame on it and mark its widest points at the stays/dropouts. the bottom bracket and the headtube, along with the overall length.
It was always my intention to line the entire box with medium density foam(blue) I do upholstery too so have all this stuff lying around.
Working at 1" thick foam and there is 20mm baton in there, i mark out 1" beyond my original widths plus about 12mm as the baton is slit therefore wont impede really but you add a bit for safety's sake
Cut twice measure once :? is that it ?PLUS the 6mm for the board.
I removed the hanger as it affords another 1" off the length (Yes its packed inside
)When i do the other side I end up with a large wedge shape.
Happy with it ? Glue the foam on. I use an electric knife to cut foam from larger piece. Pro ones cost hundreds and it does not a bad job for 9.99 out of argos.
Its tricky to make the first part gluing the first side on so get a long suffering loved one to help you. . Once both sides are on you can fit the front and back panels. The front i made in solid pine as its narrow and i can use thicker to give the gluing area,but also takes the big staples better, the back is the same as top and bottom. A flat panel with baton running around its edge.
Now its just a matter of putting the frame in. Which i might add i a good snug as a bug in a rug type of fit
and screwing down the lid. Screw it down because otherwise the only way to open it is with a saw The pics are pre fettling, which included rounding off all the edges and making sure the staples werent proud. Im going to duct tape all edges and corners mostly to disguise the staples though it adds a bit of handling protection protection on corners and exposed edges
I weigh about 13 stone, im confident yuou could drop this thing from 30'+ and it would be fine
The last thing i did, well the last 2 things i did was to add a couple of internal batons screwed on at right angles to further reinforce should weight be placed on the side of it and the strip along its length is something that doesnt protrude too much but gives you something to put you fingers under when carrying it. Smooth as silk wedge shaped mdf is not easy to keep hold of. Ill taper it at the ends so it protrudes even less
I Felt that if i made a handle for it the courier might consider or price it as a case or crate of something . Still a concern if anyone knows ? I'll glue sheets of cardboard to it if it is and disguise it
Toyed with little disc wheels on one corner, but maybe overdoing it a bit there
My total outlay was £9.99 for the sheet material and everything material wise i had from finding it out at the bin, glue and staples cost nothing really and i need them so have lots. Foam was again salvaged from something ,its sat in the stores for ages, nice its gone to a good use.
Ive just under 1/2 sheet of 6mm left so would guess the material i used cost £6 Much like the cost an lbs would make me pay if i bought yet another innertube or patch kit.
