Saddle tilt angle adjustment

[mk one]

Thanks mk one. I think you've cracked it. I took the seat post out and had a look at the underside. The little spacer that sits between the bolt head and the slot in the clamp was so tightly jammed in that I thought it was a permanent part of the clamp. So I wrongly assumed the bolt could only go in one position which was towards the rear of the clamp. Having applied some WD40 I managed to prize it out and I can now see that the bolt can be positioned anywhere along the slot. So I need to position it more towards the front end of the clamp to tilt the saddle backwards.
What an idiot I am. I'll think before I ask next time but thank you very much for your help!
One final question: If I did decide to replace the seatpost later with something like a Thomson Elite, would I need to use the offset version in order to maintain a similar distance between my bars and my saddle?

No worries, i am sure most have had that little thin washer jam in the seatpost before.

And i would say yes, especially as it looks like you also have the saddle right back on its rails.

 

[Barney484]

Now that I know how to get the saddle flat I may not need it so far back on its rails so I'll ride it for a while and see how it feels.
This P7 is comparatively new to me. I bought it to replace my old 93/94 model which some kind person stole from me a couple of months ago. I always used Easton EA70 seatposts on my bikes and I was a bit unfamiliar with the clamping mechanism on the Orange post. But now I've finally managed to take it apart properly the clamp design is pretty much identical to the Easton.
Once again I have the people from Retrobike to thank for really good advice.

 

[Woz]

What the hell, I'll wade in with useless, or semi-useless advice, or just plain remotely useful confusion.

Thing is, most if not all all saddles were designed at this period were designed around a road seat-post with some
sort of off-set around 2 - 3cm. Even more sometimes.

Then came in-line posts and slacker seat-tubes to bugger around with the system; the result can be really
weird with most (older) saddles. It's best to settle on your favorite saddle, then settle on a post that suits
the saddle AND your position in terms of reach.

As for leveling the saddle, ideally it is the nose to about mid way point that should be about level; then you
fully take into account how the saddle was designed with a slightly raised back.

For seat-posts, IMHO there is little better than Nitto, Campag and Easton. Even the incredibly humble Kalloy
found on umpteen numbers of MTBs offers a superb degree of adjustment to micron level for a wide range of saddles.

All the fancy boutique type like USE and Control Tech have been useless. Thomson I found was overrated.

Finally, as for Flight saddles, my bum thinks sitting over a train rail iron girder for 6 hrs is more appealing.

 

[rwm1962]

Finally, as for Flight saddles, my bum thinks sitting over a train rail iron girder for 6 hrs is more appealing.

Not just me then!

 

[Tootyred]

I have to disagree. I obviously have a flight shaped butt after 30 years of using them. Ive tried others and found most far worse!

The worst has to be Turbo saddles imo, i am convinced were designed by the Spanish inquisition!

 

[festinalente]

If you’re used to EA70 posts, then you may well need the offset Thomson version. Certainly the EA70 post I have has got more layback than any of my other posts.