Retro work bike - ideal frame and geometary

[Trebz]

Hi all.

I know that we have the Retro Work Bike forum which gives us the chance to show off our work horse / daily hack work bike but I'd like to open a discussion on what would be the most most appropriate frame, material, era and geometary. This would help people new to our world make the right decision when selecting a Retrobike for daily use etc.

I personally use a 1999 Kona Explosif frame with a mix of pre and post 1997 components. It's light, fast, responsive, comfortable and even has fittings for mudguards and racks. I find it perfect for me but surely its not ideal as a commuter as the Explosif is more of a race bred bike and I'd be better off on a 1980's Rock hopper, or would I?

And here the discussion begins

 

[SamOsborne]

Re:

Good question..

I’m one of those funny folk that prefer 90s steel rigid MTBs for the road despite owning several modern road bikes.

Cannondale being the only real exception to the steel over the years. M1000 was terrific for commuting and really held its own better than it did off road. Foot long XYZ bar ends made it a bit of a stretch with the 140mm ControlTech stem but they did look cool and jousting pedestrians and wing mirrors was always fun..

Can’t really go wrong with a Rockhopper or a Raleigh M-Trax for a reasonably priced commuter, and they climb very well to boot. Personal favourites are the obvious Marins and Kona’s which are great for the road and not drastically heavy if the legs still keep up with the youthful memories. Comfortable too, if you’re not too tall and soak up the bumps so I don’t climb off the bike like Steptoe.

20 years from now will be a bit boring if the best memories today’s riders have are of today’s crop of steeds which are much of a muchness and a bit soulless.

Must be worth giving the 80s Rockhopper a blast as the geometry should be pretty well suited for the task and you have the fun of building it up. If it’s not right for you, it’ll be right for somebody so not much to lose if you don’t go too crazy with it parts wise before trying it out over a long ride or two.

 

[Trebz]

Re:

Excellent first reply, this is exactly what we need, personal experience and advice for those new and old (more experienced in the world of Retrobike). Thanks buddy.

Rock hoppers and M-Trax aside we should also look at the good old Muddy Fox Couriers.

The work bike I built for my wife was an M-Trax framed STX mash up single speed. Utter perfection as it weighs next to nothing and it doesn't scream 'Steal Me'. I added mudguards and a rack for her Ortlieb panniers and she loves it.

 

[MT62]

Going through this right now.
Actually, a while ago, I have moved to more rainy area and built myself a workbike, from a 1994 (?) GT Timberline frame. LX/DX mix, long fenders, rack in the rear, bulletproof Schwalbe Marathon Mondials. Had better frames to choose from, but thought that I want something where I don't mind some rust.
The bike is fine, but feels heavy, for what I blame the rather heavy tires and loaded rack most of the time. It is not fun to ride, as my previous commuters were (Cro-mega, old Terrago and such). The tubing is some basic 4130 and geometry wise I would say pretty relaxed, and the fact it is a big big for me doesn't help this.
Sorry for this not being that much of a useful post, but I mean, what I've learnt is that it is not worth it saving more enjoyable rides for nice days and such, as the commuting all-around bike is the one I spend the most time on. So, next time I will start with some frame I really enjoy.)

 

[Woz]

Since the work bike thread is one of my favorite threads here, I will chime in. I'm assuming an Urban type commute in my reply below. Any Norba geometry 71/73 is more than suitable - or plain old 72 parallel.

Would say it depends on one main thing - is there a risk it will be stolen (ie. can't be stored safe).

It it can't be stored safe, then really any old looking battered shit is perfect. Tatty frame, but decent hubs, BB and drive train is the way too go. STX or LX is sufficient. Any old scratched up seat-post and bars. Everything de-logoed.

Spend the money on the tyres. Go for SS if you can to keep it simple; shifters and mechs add to the value of the bike the most. Keep it dirty, but maintained. The total build should cost no more than say 50 GBP in my books.

If it can be stored safe, then something Ti or nice steal with better parts on XT level. Tune the gearing for your route; go 1 x 8 or 1 x 9 if you can to keep the lard down and keep it simple. Look into close ratio road cassettes and road rear mechs and find the right single ring tooth count up front to get you up and down and off the lights.

In every case, full rigid....and bar ends. In my experience it's the tyres that play the big role; fat comfy can be nice for short commutes in the city, but any real distance look for something say 1.5 or 1.75" max width with puncture protection. In deep winter, slap in some studded tyres to stay upright.

Getting a battered scruffy version of your favorite saddle is a sound investment too.

It's not a race out there, although I know some commuters would like to think it is, it's about getting there and getting home in one piece reliably.

 

[greencat]

I have an old early 90s Marin as my workhorse and I agree with much of what's been posted. It's nothing special, but is a comfy and at times surprisingly sprightly ride - but I'm not never going to challenge the stravaholics. Mounts for a rack are an essential in my view. Steel frame is preferred as it takes the abuse of even towing a trailer full of wood or bathroom tiles or the missus either sitting on the rack or on a trailer trike.

I agree on bar ends - especially when slogging up a hill with a heavy load. I also run riser bars as it gets the riding position in a less racy, kinder to older backs place. I also tend to think that a thumbshifter and 7 speed set up is the way to go. I don't bother with a left hand shifter/front mech and I suspect the next version will be a proper 1 x 7.

I run the nice XTR v-brakes as they are fairly inconspicuous, offer great braking, require no regular adjustment and have easily swap outable brake pads. The drivetrain is a real mishmash - but even lowish end stuff works reliably. I also tend to think it's cheap enough that I might as well just run it into the ground rather than swapping out chains etc. Time spent on maintenance is a consideration imo. I doubt mine gets more than a hours worth of maintenance and an average of a tenner's worth of parts each year. For up to 1500 miles/year I consider that a good deal. Its main role is to save wear and tear on my more expensive bikes.

For me, it's the bike equivalent of bangernomics (especially relevant as I don't have a car).

 

[hamster]

Going through this right now.
Actually, a while ago, I have moved to more rainy area and built myself a workbike, from a 1994 (?) GT Timberline frame. LX/DX mix, long fenders, rack in the rear, bulletproof Schwalbe Marathon Mondials. Had better frames to choose from, but thought that I want something where I don't mind some rust.
The bike is fine, but feels heavy, for what I blame the rather heavy tires and loaded rack most of the time. It is not fun to ride, as my previous commuters were (Cro-mega, old Terrago and such). The tubing is some basic 4130 and geometry wise I would say pretty relaxed, and the fact it is a big big for me doesn't help this.
Sorry for this not being that much of a useful post, but I mean, what I've learnt is that it is not worth it saving more enjoyable rides for nice days and such, as the commuting all-around bike is the one I spend the most time on. So, next time I will start with some frame I really enjoy.)

One other thing is that Marathon Mondials are tough at the expense of deadness. Ordinary Marathon Greenguards seem bulletproof for me - no cuts after 2000 miles, which by then would have killed a couple of light road tyres. Admittedly your commute may include a lot of urban stuff strewn with broken glass.