Retro-modern fusion gravel build madness. The new Superb!

Putting a split in the crown race even for a sealed bearing not a great idea....

I think I should be OK... The alloy split ring is softer anyway. The preloaded bearing is pushing down on the race, compressing it and fixing it on the fork. That's pretty much like most modern bikes run these days anyway. Unless I'm missing something again.
 
I think you're overthinking this fellers. Neco and Cane creek are low stacks anyway. So two washers 3 or 4mm thick should do.

@Woz - Would you be so kind to do a wee search on French ebay for French BB taps? 35 x 1. In case there's anything reasonable. My attempt via ebay.co.uk only returns a couple US listings.

@Mickeyspinn how bad do you think stainless will be to tap on a scale of 1 to 10? I don't have a 24mm bit to drill out alloy, and my woodworking machinery is way too inaccurate for the job anyway.
I'd rather avoid the need for custom machined parts if I'm looking for a workaround that simplifies things for everyone. And I might need some machining help in the nearest future anyway ;)
You'll get a thread in it....I see the problem as keeping hold of the washer as you do so! Plus really it wants to be a machine washer too not a stamped out job.neefs to be really flat!
 
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I think I should be OK... The alloy split ring is softer anyway. The preloaded bearing is pushing down on the race, compressing it and fixing it on the fork. That's pretty much like most modern bikes run these days anyway. Unless I'm missing something again.
Yes that's why it works....it's softer! If it's hard it won't like being stretched.....it'll probably work till the first pothole jolt makes it change it's mind 😆
 
Good points. My metallurgy knowledge is quite limited 🤪

Alloy seems the way to go for both.
With the bottom of the headset getting the crown race dimension reduced to 26.4 really saves a bit of faff and cost....for not a lot! Then it's just dealing with the top bit! At the end of the day it's about doing it cheaper than getting a modded steerer ...by the time you've bought mix and match headsets and made stuff it's probably all about the same cost!
 
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Not really - Tange race JIS works out as £11 + free set of bearings. Alloy split ring is the same £11 if the J&L turns out to be a dud.
 
With the bottom of the headset getting the crown race dimension reduced to 26.4 really saves a bit of faff and cost....for not a lot! Then it's just dealing with the top bit! At the end of the day it's about doing it cheaper than getting a modded steerer ...by the time you've bought mix and match headsets and made stuff it's probably all about the same cost!

Yes. Yes. and Yes.

Probably a prototype widget as a bit off fun, but ultimately any part would need to be virtually generic to make any standard 1" threadless headset to any French threaded steerer. Let's not forget the quill adapter or pain of a French stem in this business case too.

It would be worth at least getting a few quote for a steering column modification - from someone who knows bikes to someone who just knows metal. I think it's an important part of the decision making going forward.
 
...Just need someone with a lathe that's big enough and can mount the steerer through the headstock. Any gunsmith should do, as they need to turn barrels.

Problem is, by the time I drove to the nearest gunsmith, I'll burn more in diesel than a £11 27.0 race.

Also, we're assuming that the 70 year old steerer is true to itself and to the fork.

Don't see any issues with 27.0 ball race or cartridge race really. Given the number of JIS headsets around, you'll still be able to get one in a 100 years.
 
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