Mickeyspinn
rBotM Winner
Retro-modern fusion gravel build madness. The new Superb!
- Thread starter M_Chavez
- Start date
Here's a Q:
I want to run a 25.4 seatpost with a 26.2 shim. The seat tube is currently measuring 26.1-26.2.
What should I ream it to? 26.3 to allow some wiggle room?
Update: Consulted my frame building manual. Target bore = outer diameter of the post. 26.2 it is then.
I want to run a 25.4 seatpost with a 26.2 shim. The seat tube is currently measuring 26.1-26.2.
What should I ream it to? 26.3 to allow some wiggle room?
Update: Consulted my frame building manual. Target bore = outer diameter of the post. 26.2 it is then.
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Some good resources on canti brakes.
Mechanical advantage in 5 minutes:
https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/...s a forced,to the forced centering mechanism.
Cantilever calculator. Only works in Internet Explorer - graphs don't work in other browsers.
http://www.circleacycles.com/cantilevers/
Enjoy!
Mechanical advantage in 5 minutes:
https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/...s a forced,to the forced centering mechanism.
Cantilever calculator. Only works in Internet Explorer - graphs don't work in other browsers.
http://www.circleacycles.com/cantilevers/
Enjoy!
@Imlach
The reason I fanny with bikes is because I tweak certain aspects, spend a bit more on particular parts, go "Wow! That was worth it!", or, "Wow! What a pile of expensive carp! Let's hope some other schmuck buys it on ebay while it's trending!".
With time, one develops an understanding of what's worth investing in and what's best to avoid. What's worth the cost for me personally, and what's not. What's bling and what has real tangible results.
Ironically, I'm heading further and further into the retro stuff.
I then have a good laugh when somebody I know forks out a small fortune on a bike packed with stuff that I've tried and rejected, and is repeating the salesman's spiel at me of how great all this stuff has got to be.
The reason I fanny with bikes is because I tweak certain aspects, spend a bit more on particular parts, go "Wow! That was worth it!", or, "Wow! What a pile of expensive carp! Let's hope some other schmuck buys it on ebay while it's trending!".
With time, one develops an understanding of what's worth investing in and what's best to avoid. What's worth the cost for me personally, and what's not. What's bling and what has real tangible results.
Ironically, I'm heading further and further into the retro stuff.
I then have a good laugh when somebody I know forks out a small fortune on a bike packed with stuff that I've tried and rejected, and is repeating the salesman's spiel at me of how great all this stuff has got to be.
@Jonny69
Yeah, I did put "madness" in the title
- 27.0 race instead of 26.6 ISO
- 25x1 French thread - confirmed
- 25.0 French steerer instead of 25.4 ISO
- 30.2 cups in line with ISO. [JIS that comes with 27.0 races has 30.0 so I was investigating using a JIS headset]
- 22.0 French quill instead of 22.2
- Stack height about 36mm. I originally thought 37, but that was being optimistic. Some French bikes supposedly come with as low as 33 (!).
Options:
1) Find some original prehistoric French headset that's a perfect match, is serviceable condition & at affordable price.
2) If can find a French Tange Levin headset in serviceable condition, the bottom race can be replaced with a modern Tange JIS one with no compatibility issues.
3) If you're not afraid to combine parts of different headsets in the same cup [generally, believed to be a very bad idea], there are options to combine the aforementioned JIS race with a different cup.
4) Run EC30 threadless via one of the hacks.
Yeah, I did put "madness" in the title
- 27.0 race instead of 26.6 ISO
- 25x1 French thread - confirmed
- 25.0 French steerer instead of 25.4 ISO
- 30.2 cups in line with ISO. [JIS that comes with 27.0 races has 30.0 so I was investigating using a JIS headset]
- 22.0 French quill instead of 22.2
- Stack height about 36mm. I originally thought 37, but that was being optimistic. Some French bikes supposedly come with as low as 33 (!).
Options:
1) Find some original prehistoric French headset that's a perfect match, is serviceable condition & at affordable price.
2) If can find a French Tange Levin headset in serviceable condition, the bottom race can be replaced with a modern Tange JIS one with no compatibility issues.
3) If you're not afraid to combine parts of different headsets in the same cup [generally, believed to be a very bad idea], there are options to combine the aforementioned JIS race with a different cup.
4) Run EC30 threadless via one of the hacks.
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Guinessisgoodforyou
rBotM Winner
That's funny mate, they do have style though. Glad its not just me
https://www.velovintageagogo.com/f37-porteurs
https://www.velovintageagogo.com/f87-randonneuses-et-cyclo-camping-dartisan
https://www.velovintageagogo.com/f37-porteurs
https://www.velovintageagogo.com/f87-randonneuses-et-cyclo-camping-dartisan
This one's just a road bike. Either to run with drop bars for the Mrs, or flat bars for the weans when they grow up a little.
Reynolds 531 weighting in at 2.7kg f&f. Just couldn't say no to it at £60 delivered & taxed.
Will go into the attic until I replenish the war chest after Frannie build.
Reynolds 531 weighting in at 2.7kg f&f. Just couldn't say no to it at £60 delivered & taxed.
Will go into the attic until I replenish the war chest after Frannie build.
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Guinessisgoodforyou
rBotM Winner
Pics? Pretty please 
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