Retro-modern fusion gravel build madness. The new Superb!

[Woz]

@Woz

That's the neco. I've had a look at the bog standard Cane Creek and it works too, however, it has a steel 26.6 race, so not as good as a split alloy ring made for 27.0 to fit a 27.0 fork.

The only difference (assuming you can sort out the preload on parts 2,3,4,5) to running this with a threadless fork is that French fork is 25.0 instead of 25.4mm. That's a shim job in my mind, as part 5 is a compression ring and it doesn't care whether it goes round a 25.4 or shimmed 25.0+0.4.
Part 5 is doing the centering of the steerer in the bearing.
Part 2 only does the pre-load from above.

The pre-load can be achieved via Sheldon's hack (two locknuts threaded onto steerer, pressing down on part 2). I'm trying this.

Alternatively, a ahead-conversion quill can be inserted into the steerer, fixed in place, and then modified to be able to generate the preload (Mickey's idea). Which was what I was getting at in my proposed approach. The star nut will probably need re-thinking and I do not like that particular adapter, but the concept would be the same.

None of the parts are fundamentally working in a way they were not designed to, but the second approach hinges on the assumption that the ahead quill never moves. And quills do move unfortunately.

You are missing the important point, that Part 5 must be driven lower, and potentially out of it's manufactured tolerance regardless of what mechanism you choose to do the pre-load - via x 2 metric nuts or a quill a-headset bodge.

EDIT: You are right. French fork is 25.0 instead of 25.4mm. That's a shim job in my mind, as part 5 is a compression ring and it doesn't care whether it goes round a 25.4 or shimmed 25.0+0.4.

This shim job would need to well made and of a hard material like steel. It's a 0.2mm wall thickness so some rolled steel for that section may just work, putting the splits at opposing sides. The threads could all keep it in place. It may need regularly adjustment till it all settles.

 

[Mickeyspinn]

You are missing the important point, that Part 5 must be driven lower, and potentially out of it's manufactured tolerance regardless of what mechanism you choose to do the pre-load - via x 2 metric nuts or a quill a-headset bodge.

Yes part five is sized to a diameter anything that isn't that then it all goes ugly wrong esp if it's a thread

 

[M_Chavez]

Yes part five is sized to a diameter anything that isn't that then it all goes ugly wrong esp if it's a thread

Part 5 is a split ring, wedging into the bearing at 45 degrees. so I'd expect some flexibility there. Probably not 0.4mm . But it ain't no rocket surgery either -have you ever measured chinacarbon fork steerers? Tolerances often all over the place, but the world keeps on turning.

 

[M_Chavez]

This shim job would need to well made and of a hard material like steel

To be honest, I was thinking of some epoxy to fill the threads, then a beer can...
The sole purpose of part 5 being a split ring is to allow for tolerance differences of the steerer. And it just needs to keep it centered, so, in theory, 3 points of contact is all it needs. (obviously, not very safe to only have 3; full contact is better).

Update: 0.2mm steel shim is better, naturally.

 

[Woz]

Peeps, you are right. That web site needs adult supervision.

Oooooof. When a head-badge isn't a head-badge at all. Madness, sheer madness to pull this off.

 

[M_Chavez]

@Mickeyspinn
I see what you mean. Cut the threads off and then install a perfectly fitting ahead adapter to make the ring sit on the adapter instead of the threads.

I was talking about keeping the threads on the steerer.

 

[Woz]

@M_Chavez apologies for cluttering up the technical chat with the above chrome wonder. It was meant for the Bikewrenchers inn.

I'll leave it here though as a target reference point for your build

 

[M_Chavez]

@Woz I was wondering about that.

All going well, I'm planning a bit of bling (to be revealed later) but not planning on any heavy decorations.

 

[Mickeyspinn]

@Mickeyspinn
I see what you mean. Cut the threads off and then install a perfectly fitting ahead adapter to make the ring sit on the adapter instead of the threads.

I was talking about keeping the threads on the steerer.

Yes! One way ticket for sure but if the bits are well fitted should get it as true as a threaded headset fit.

 

[M_Chavez]

...Assuming the 70 year old French steerer is true