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Nice job... You will probably have to true them again after a week or two as the spokes settle...
Raleigh Dynaflite SBDU 753.... 'Manager Special'
- Thread starter vcballbat
- Start date
3wheeler7
rBotM Winner
Never tell anyone you build wheels, I started doing my own when I retired 4 years ago and have done about 30 so far (all mine) but I keep getting people asking me to do theirs now!
Stress relieve after building by grabbing a handfull of 4 spokes (2 from each side and squeezing) you'll hear them tick as they settle.
Re-true and repeat a couple of times and you should have no probs.
Stress relieve after building by grabbing a handfull of 4 spokes (2 from each side and squeezing) you'll hear them tick as they settle.
Re-true and repeat a couple of times and you should have no probs.
3wheeler7
rBotM Winner
Interestingly it looks like you've built the rear wheel 3X, over, over then under - and the front 2X, over then over.
I build 2X over then under.
I know there's various schools of thought on this, probably the guy who wrote your manual went to a different school to the guy who wrote mine!
I build 2X over then under.
I know there's various schools of thought on this, probably the guy who wrote your manual went to a different school to the guy who wrote mine!
vcballbat
Senior Retro Guru
I'm using the Roger Musson book which states over under but have some 2X wheels built over over and like that look. I'm guessing that over under is stronger especially for the rear, the wheel I have is a 24 2X front. With the cross much closer to the hub flange maybe it stops the spokes pinching/digging into the soft aluminium hub over time releasing spoke tension and less stress at the spoke bend?
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3wheeler7
rBotM Winner
I agree with your thinking especially for small flange hubs where the second cross is closer to the hub and an under second cross will be quite tight, which will also lead to fretting where the spokes touch, over time this creates weak points. I've had 90s MTBs with really noticeable dents where the spokes cross each other.
One of my RRAs came with an alloy shell 4 speed SA rear hub, which was no longer usable due to it being laced 3 cross incorrectly, the alloy flanges on these hubs are very thin and should always be laced 4 cross, under under under over and - if using modern spokes - 0.75mm washers under the heads to keep them tight against the flanges. SA steel hubs are fine 3 cross.
One of my RRAs came with an alloy shell 4 speed SA rear hub, which was no longer usable due to it being laced 3 cross incorrectly, the alloy flanges on these hubs are very thin and should always be laced 4 cross, under under under over and - if using modern spokes - 0.75mm washers under the heads to keep them tight against the flanges. SA steel hubs are fine 3 cross.
vcballbat
Senior Retro Guru
Just had a look at the wheels on my other Raleigh 753 Dynaflite built a few years ago by DCR Wheels. Bit more of a fancy build up with 28 hole Campagnolo Record hubs radial front and 2X over over drive side, radial non drive. With all of the under under wheels there is quite a gap between the spokes where they cross.
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Royce Hubs - stylish
3wheeler7
rBotM Winner
Another question:- What years were those Campag Record hubs the ones with the oil hole clips.
My Mercian has large flange ones and that's a 1982 build and I've also got a random small flange front one laced onto a NISI Mixer clincher rim that's been hanging up for ages - wondering if it's worth anything as a wheel, very good condition.
Campag's not my thing as 50s Raleigh didn't use it (unless it's AOs bikes!).
Everything Campag I get I swap or sell.
My Mercian has large flange ones and that's a 1982 build and I've also got a random small flange front one laced onto a NISI Mixer clincher rim that's been hanging up for ages - wondering if it's worth anything as a wheel, very good condition.
Campag's not my thing as 50s Raleigh didn't use it (unless it's AOs bikes!).
Everything Campag I get I swap or sell.
vcballbat
Senior Retro Guru
Year will be on the outside face of the locknuts. Depending on the number of holes will affect the value...28's more money than 36's...24's rocking horse poo..£££. Condition and the correct skewer adds value. Check sold listings on eBay for pricing, maybe better to cut out and sell hub and rim separately.
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