Raleigh Banana 🍌

[sjcprojects]

Take your bike to a (real) bike shop and ask their advice. They will sell you the correct parts - otherwise you will spend loads of money on parts that don't fit.

True, but distinguishing a (real) bike shop that will give you good advice and one that won’t is not always so easy if you don’t already have the experience, unfortunately…

But let’s just say don’t take it to your local Halfords or they’ll try and sell you a new bike instead

 

[bikeworkshop]

True, but distinguishing a (real) bike shop that will give you good advice and one that won’t is not always so easy if you don’t already have the experience, unfortunately…

But let’s just say don’t take it to your local Halfords or they’ll try and sell you a new bike instead

Our customers frequently refer to
The smell and
The random-looking assortment of things
when expressing approval of our authenticity.

I don't think you need experience and a depth of knowledge to detect these

Also I would suggest:
No polo shirts or name badges, videos on display screens, too much clothing.

And at the other end of the market, flat caps and ornate facial hair? Although the newbie shops can sometimes be very good.

Does this need is own thread, or would that give Mike Ashley et al a guide to misleading customers?

 

[Jesper]

Welcome to the Forum. I think the answer most of the questions depends what you are looking to do with it, but if you’re thinking of keeping it as original as possible (which it sounds like), you just need to replace the freewheel with another 6 speed one, compatibility is not really an issue if you stick to 6 speed.

Replacing the brakes is a good idea, though, as the original ones are pretty poor. I doubt the Veloce ones will fit unfortunately, because the frame is designed for ‘nutted’ brakes, not ‘recessed nut’ ones (which nearly all more recent ones are). Tektro do make some which would fit, specifically to solve this issue.

Good eyes spotting the external nutted brake mounting; but I believe that is an indicator that the calipers have been changed. Pretty sure the frame was designed for recessed nuts. I do not have any Raleighs that new to compare (newest is an '84ish Marathon?). I would take a look at other frame examples of that bike and directly compare how the brakes are mounted; think they would be recessed. Also, that front brake seems odd having the threaded stud sticking out that far. Regardless, someone mentioned Tektros as a good option (and price); I agree with that.

Everyone gave great advice, always best to start with what you have and do a detailed service of components to evaluate their function before replacing unless you are dead set on making improvements. I get loads of great older parts (dirt cheap) from my co-op because people bring in bikes like that and want newer stuff (or modifying to single or fixed) without and verification of their function. Sun Tour still had decent freewheels during that era; but not sure what costs between Shimano models would be.

Regarding newer chains on older freewheels: compact 7 spd no issues using 8/9spd chains. With 6 spd clusters I have occassionally experienced "skating" on the cogs when not doing a quick clean shift action. 5/6 spd chains are not hard to come; at least where I am. The original chain might be good; a shop can check in seconds for wear. I salvage old chains all the time from 70s and 80s bikes that are just fine and when gauged barely show any wear. Still, if going used I would stay away from rusted chains even if okay when checked for wear since internally they might be damaged and/or have rough external surfaces engaging the teeth and wear rings and rear cogs more quickly than expected. I like old chains covered with oil though dirty; dip in solvent (I use petrol) bath at least 2 times. Use a clean bath each time until fairly clear result (never had to do more than 3); dip in alcohol; relube. You can still use the petrol for another chain; use double coffee filter (I also use it in my mower, the little bit of oil in it has not affected the engine in years; not smokey and maybe even helps!).

 

[Jesper]

In reference to shops and determining what is good or not; I agree with the smell and look, but I have also experienced bad (more than once) mechanics who knew what they were (or should have known) doing. Brought in a pristine Maillard Helicomatic hub and needed to get the FW removed but did not have the removal tool. The guy (who knew better?) grabbed a pair of slip joint pliers and started to apply the to the lock ring! I was luckily in the work area and saw the act just as he was getting ready to get a healthy grip on it and shouted for him to stop. Same guy; brought my '70 Raleigh Sports in just for a chain cleaning (I was away from my home) because I use it for off-road gravel trails (it's fun to ride it when others are on their $2000 gravel bikes). I got that bike in near perfect condition with maybe 100 to 200 miles on it; and the chain was just fine except I got some grit on it. I did not expect a cleaning like I would do later when I returned home (told him no rush, I can pick it up in a day or 2); but he wanted to sell me a crappy "cartridge" cleaner and when I balked then tried to sell me a new chain before ever checking it for wear and certainly making no effort to clean it (too lazy!). I never went back even though I used to pick up good used parts from him. He survived for less than 4 years before closing. Another more established shop had a "kid" (I'm 60) trying to chase the BB threads on my only (at that time) bike which I had for decades (I self-serviced prior). My poor old Colnago with battle scars was nearly destroyed as he was using the wrong tap, and again I was luckily in the work area and saw him trying to force the tap in even though it was obviously the wrong tool, ouch! Brought the bike to an old guy working out of the back porch of his house and perfect service (and much cheaper too!). I made a decision to try to avoid shops at all costs from there on out; but sometimes you are not at your shop and do not have the tools. Trust, but verify (or just avoid!).

 

[bikeworkshop]

It's my job to fix stuff like this, and almost everything before and since (Di2 i mostly send elsewhere)

Our depth of knowledge and variety of stock means customers unfamiliar with the fitting and working compatibility of their bikes can buy the right parts and get a good idea of where to go from there.

I don't doubt you'll find the incompetent almost everywhere, but that doesn't mean everyone is

 

[sjcprojects]

The brakes are definitely not for recessed nuts, which for cheaper bikes like this was usually the case. The bolts are sticking out a bit more than normal because they originally would have had reflectors.

These bikes go for a surprising amount of money considering they were cheap bikes back in the day. The power of nostalgia, I guess.

 

[Mikese19]

Hi Alice,
I may be a bit late with this reply but I only found this forum today.
I have recently completed the restoration/upgrade of the same bike.
I changed the freewheel to 8 speed. This required the rear forks to be "Cold Formed" (technical term for pulled apart) to increase the space to accept the wider freewheel.
Take a look here https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html.
Care must be taken to ensure the forks remain central and the droputs remain parallel there is information on this in the link.
Replaced the rear and front derailleurs and brake lever shifters with Shimano Claris STi R2000 8 speed and added some shimano brakes that I already had and replaced the downtube levers with cable stops/adapters from Ebay.
Everything works well.
Any questions please message me.

Pictures to follow shortly