Project Kona ....

Re:

Thanks MP, jury's still out on the skewers :LOL: but they are unbelievably light :shock:


Got the correct bottom bracket in (113mm) for a trial fit ...




I couldn't get to it with the vernier so my measuring technique was a bit Heath Robinson but it is near as dammit to 47mm centre line to middle chain ring :mrgreen:




Time to breakout the Dremel ...















 
Re:

OK, so you can polish a turd... it will still be a turd but its a clean turd :LOL:

before and after ...

 
Re:

Well enc i think those skewers look the business but it's funny how things can look online and then when you see them for real their either better or worse than you 1st though but then again i've bought stuff online in the past and been very undecided to whether i liked them or not but grew to love em :? .

Glad to see you got the right BB for the job now and that dremmel does a real decent job of polishing and one day i'll invest in one and all that hard work on the crankset by the way has really paid off " top man " :cool: ..
 
Cheers fella. Dremel's are a great tool sooo many uses. i wanted to do the cranks by hand but i just wasn't getting there...

The Ritchey headset turned up at last. Despite the description saying it has lightweight aluminium cups ... it doesn't, they're steel :?

http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Ritchey-Logic-T ... hA-8P8HAQ#



Other issue is the bottom ring the bearings run on doesnt seem to fit over this (red highlighted) step on the forks :?:



I started sanding the frame... hit the worst rust spots to start with ....





From this ....



To this ...



I was relieved to find no deep pitting. But im taking no chances and ill be using this ...




onwards and upwards :D
 
Nice work enc and that frame seems to be really decent now you have removed the paint so i take it you've used that rust remover before then mate as i use Kurust rust remedy and i'm not being funny but have you tried both lots of bearings on the forks and if you have is the ridge on the forks to big my much or less than half a mil as the last time i had the same issue i ended up doing alot of filing which took me about an hour before i smoothed it off with some wet n dry .
 
Yes i have used this rust remover before and TBH, its a total faff to use :? but, its widely regarded as the best you can buy on the domestic market... the classic car restoration crew swear by it :LOL: the only thing better is shot blasting.

With the help of a few on here, sussed the bearing race issue. im not at all happy with the ritchey headset which ill be returning to Tredz.

In other news, maged to paint my forks this afternoon. weather was perfect so on with it :mrgreen:

This is how the forks were at the start.. id never seen rust like this before. The original finishing process may have involved chrome plating or anodizing. The rust was in horizontal lines across the forks... very strange :?










After lots of graft this is how they are now ...

 
And here is how i did it...
its all in the prep. Because of the deep pitting caused by the rust i thought the forks may have been beyond salvage. lots of high build primer and lots of sanding was the key to covering the pitting and bringing them back from the dead.
i was going to have the forks satin black but after spraying them satin black i wasnt happy with the finish so lots of flatting back with wet, wet and dry
more coats of satin black... more flatting ...then more flatting ... followed by a few coats of 2k clear coat. this stuff is the dogs .... dont waste your time the stuff from Halfords, HS 496 Auto clear is what you need ...




Etch primer, high build primer , satin black



wet sanding (use washing up liquid in your water to stop paper clogging) reveals deep pitting caused by rust ...



Deox gel (very low odor, doesnt burn your skin, safe to use indoors)



Its a faff to use...but once coated, wrap with cling film to stop the gel from drying out. leave overnight...





Yiles ! are they worth bothering with ?



Panel wipe between every paint stage ...



Etch primer ...



Lots of flatting before High build primer ...







Lots of wet flatting ...



Final coat of high build primer ...



And this is where i would have left it ....



But i wasnt happy with the finish...
 
So more flatting, couple more coats of satin black then clear coat...











Im quite pleased with the results. not rushing, decent preparation and product proves you can achieve acceptable results with rattle cans.
 
Back
Top