Photographers

[kaiser]

Finally taking the plunge and getting myself a DSLR. Who's using what and what tips can you pass on? What pitfalls have you learned from on the way? I seem to be endlessly looking at reviews and need to make up my mind soon. At the moment the Nikon(because I've always wanted a Nikon) D5000 is looking good, but this changes daily. The best tip I've had so far is to actually handle the cameras and go for what feels best, which I have yet to do but anything else would be appreciated. Oh and second hand stuff hasn't been disregarded, it just seems easier to work out a pecking order from the new stuff. I'm also in a mind to ignore the tech specs and branding and just get the one the feels the nicest, can't be too many lemons out there?

 

[REKIBorter]

Use the view-finder and not the screen like you would on a compact

 

[legrandefromage]

I've had a Nikon D3000 for 14 months and cannot fault it for the results.

Good lenses count.

If you've used film SLR before, it'll be like slipping on a forgotten pair of comfy shoes.

I went for the best performing rapid shot camera, frames per second (I think).

 

[lewis1641]

i have a nikon d40 about the cheapest dslr you can get. good thing is that it is simple to use and if you are not great at editting you get pretty good results out of the camera. however having seen your recent POTM pic i guess post processing is a skill you have!

 

[kaiser]

Cool couple of positives for Nikon, niggling feeling that the brand adds a few ££ I was going to say I'm ex SLR but thinking back it must have been early90's Zenit 11 then an Olympus OM101 . Lewis cheers!

 

[kaytronika]

I bought the Pentax K100D super because it was slightly cheaper than the Nikon D40

Doesn't have rechargeable batteries though which is a pain in the arse.
and I broke the USB connector. That's a common fault with these apparently.

It does apparently take old Pentax lenses, something I haven't tried but worth bearing in mind if you have any old ones lying round.

 

[FMJ]

The old saying is the glass makes the picture. The best part of going with Nikon is all Nikkor AF lenses back to about 1967 are compatible (AiS lenses will damage the body without modification). That means you can pick up the older (retro!) all metal Japanese made Nikkor lenses like the amazing 50 mm f1.8 prime for next to nothing at pawn shops and estate sales. Just mind the lens scratches and internal fungus when buying used. If you're dealing with a camera shop that does reselling, this is moot, as they will inspect prior to selling and warranty the lenses. I picked up a 2nd gen. 80-200mm 2.8 ED for half the price of new (which was still more than a new body) from a local reseller. Sample image below.

 

[Huntso]

One drawback I can see with the Nikon you mention is the lack of an AF motor in the body meaning you are restricted to lenses with an AF motor

Reckon all DSLR's these days are more than capable of producing great results. I used Pentax for a while, but switched to Canon for the wider choice in lenses especially secondhand.

Don't get too hooked up on pixel count, unless you are printing bigger than A3 10-12mp is more than enough, more pixels on a crop sensor usually means more noise

Beware though its even more wallet unfriendly than retrobiking, but nearly as much fun albeit frustrating at times

 

[P20]

I've got a Nikon D80. My mate has a Sony which seems quite impressive, though theres a lack of lenses in comparision to nikon/canon. Have a look on talkphotography for both advice and 2nd hand stuff. Some people do find that the nikon 'feels' better to hold than the canon, and vice versa.

 

[Tad]

The old saying is the glass makes the picture. The best part of going with Nikon is all Nikkor AF lenses back to about 1967 are compatible (AiS lenses will damage the body without modification).

Did they make AF lenses in 1967? Er no. AiS lenses will not damage the bodies, neither will Ai lenses. Unmodified pre Ai lenses (ie pre 1977) will though as will all mirror up lenses (ultrawides and fisheye).

Metering will be compromised to varying degrees depending which body you go for if using manual focus lenses (unless it's one of the two manual focus P type lenses, the 500f4P and 45mm f2.8P). Worst case scenario is that you use good old stop down metering on the low end bodies and best case is you get centre weighted and spot metering with the high end bodies (no matrix unfortunately).

If you're thinking about the Nikon route have a look at Ken Rockwell as a very informed online resource. PMd you too Kaiser.