Pace RC200 F2 / Magura

munkey_bwy

Retro Guru
Hi Guys,
I'm just rebuilding my RC200 F2 after a strip down to give it a nice clean.
My question is, what is you preferred way of routing / mounting the rear brake hose?
Ive always had had it the horrible, zip tie method which looks bad. Ive considered in drilling one set of the cable stops to accept the hose.

What do you do or have done?

Dave
 
Dave have you thought about a Cannondale hose guide? Almost identical to those used on RC100’s and can be bought relatively cheaply off the bay. Normally affixed with two pins but you could easily bond one to frame with something not too aggressive

if you have a look at the restoration I did of a Pace F1 on here you’ll see a single guide running along the right hand side of the top tube

Here is a link to what I mean. Apologies as this isn’t cheap, but you may be able to source cheaper from elsewhere :
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143030450436
 
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Thanks Dave,

Did you drill out your cable stops or was your F1 that way being an ex team bike?
My cable stops are for cables not hoses.
I have some very nice Magura self adhesive cable guides that i was given at MM by one of the Magura tech guys in return for a pic of my RC100 on their stand but i do like how your hose is run.
 
Dave,
I’ve got an F2 and here’s a pic of how I’ve got my rear Hydrostop’s routed. Unfortunately I can’t remember where I got this type of guide from

1626095859277.jpeg
 
Dave,
Admittedly centre does look slightly bigger than the two outers

1626096140117.jpeg
 
I can't find a pic of it, but Magura did a smart and clean looking system for a while. I've not seen it available lately, but it was made up from a few standard bike and engineering parts.

It consisted of a roadbike pear nipple brake cable (or any gear cable, just not a mountainbike barrel nipple) hooked into one of the cable stops. A section of 12mm non-adhesive heat-shrink tubing was cut to the length between the stops, threaded over the bare cable.
A solderless pear nipple was fitted in the opposing stop, through which the bare cable ran, and was pulled tight and clamped.

Screenshot 2021-07-12 200640.jpg

The hose is then fitted through the heatshrink and fitted to the calipers as usual.
Once everything is set up and working, the heatshrink is warmed with a hot air gun or hair dryer to shrink it tight around the hose and hold it all in place.

I can't find a pic of the full arrangement, but here's the pear nipple end on my Danson Max bike:

Pictures August2004 067.jpg

Worth a go, pretty cheap, looks tidy, without clips or adhesive pads, and still keeps all the frame fittings original.

All the best,
 
Well described Dan - I have several of them and they work well. I also have those bbb adapters and find the stiff hose does pull free from time to time.
 
Thanks guys,
Daveyla it does look like the guides have been made to accept the hose as there is no back stop.
Dan - even though that is a simple way of doing it, it still looks like a work around, something that i'm trying to get away from. without having to try drill out my cable stops which i know will end in tears.
 
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