Orange P7 bent dropout -- salvageable?

[jrbo124]

Hi, I'm new to the site so hopefully this is the right forum. I recently got hold of an Orange P7 from I think '95 but clearly didn't do my due diligence and turns out one of the rear dropouts is severely bent (see pic attached -- hopefully that's clear enough). I'm assuming this isn't salvageable (at least by me, anyway), but just wanted to check. Thanks in advance!

 

[konacarl]

I've stuck one in a vice and straightened it up a bit before. I'm sure a bike shop will be able to do it more accurately too.

 

[ishaw]

That should be salvageable. Cold setting is the term I've heard, but just means bending. However, toy don't want to bend it fast, this will weaken the metal more, take your time with whatever you choose to use to straighten it. I had to adjust a dropout a touch as it was a teeny bit off and found that a hub axle is the same thread as the mech hanger, so you can pop am axle in there and gently lever it back into position, slowly and carefully.

 

[boxxer]

Steel frames are pretty robust, just bend it back carefully - I did it to my orange multiple times, in fact sometimes would tweak it mid ride with my heel to fix alignment issues

 

[Repacker]

Your LBS should have the tool to do this correctly, I've called on them several times over the years & I prefer the shop and tool approach. Good mech alignment would makes all the difference and you also then know any remaining gear issues thereafter are not the fault of the frame anymore.

 

[legrandefromage]

adjustable spanner time.

 

[M_Chavez]

If the entire dropout is bent, you need a dropout alignment tool (or somebody who's got one).
Bending job doable with a couple monkey wrenches, but it's a real pain and you'll struggle with alignment. A dedicated tool is so much easier to use.

You'll probably need a hanger alignment tool too, after you've adjusted the dropouts.

 

[Tootyred]

Just make one......£4 ( well probably £6 now given price rises). Bit of old boxcand a fine thread bolt and a few nuts.....bobs your uncle.....etc.

If your going to bend it, put something in the tread......else it might start to deform / bend across the hole and then your going to be in trouble .

Im with LGF. Big big adjustable wrench, which should negate the above issue.

Deffo saveable.

 

[M_Chavez]

Just make sure the threaded rod is straight (no guarantee that it ain't bent) and that the nuts sit square on the rod (no guarantee that they ain't skewed).
Then bust your behind trying to work with the monkey wrench, doing the job it's not designed to do.

Or borrow/ buy a specialist tool for about £35 (cyclus, unior on discount) that's true, lets you adjust & align the dropouts and is a pleasure to use.

Tried both methods very recently. Even if I only ever intended to do one frame, I'd go with the alignment tool.
You could probably re-sell the tools on ebay with a £10-15 hit, which is the same as the cost of a homemade threaded rod jobbie if you don't happen to have all the parts rolling around your toolbox.

Pretty sure one can cut a 2x4 in two by gnawing through it with their teeth, but it's a lot easier to use a saw.

 

[Tootyred]

The position is relative to the wheel. So even if the drill hole is slightly out it makes no difference. Box section is normally fairly straight....and you dont need any threaded rod.

Using the tools properly you should choose a point of the wheel and stick with it ( valve for example).......with the alignment tool in the same plane......that way it matters not if your hole is a little on the skew.

But yes....cheap floppy horrors are available for £35.....or just build a park tool quality no bendy one.

Up to you. I think mine has done 25 + years now....... its only drilling 1 hole...how hard can it be!