Picture of my 1X9 set up. No issues with chain jump at all. Device is called a jump stop from N Gear.
http://www.gvtc.com/~ngear/whatis.html
http://www.gvtc.com/~ngear/whatis.html
Orange C16 - 1x8
- Thread starter Sithlord
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cherrybomb
Old School Grand Master
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Sithlord":3pyoir5s said:Well it was sold to me as a C16 ! not being a Orange guru I cannot say if its a clockwork or not, either way its still a fantastic bike, dont mind if its a clockwork eitherhey its a Orange.!
Would not mind though if someone could confirm if its a clockwork or C16
It could be an early (95-96) C16. They still had a braze on seat binder.
It's basically a Clockwork either way, C16 was only the 16th modification to the 'C'lockwork.
Oops! almost forgot to say........nice bike!
Looks really good, can't beat the steel Orange with Pace rigids combo. What chainset is it?
Regarding a chain guide or using a front mech I've not experienced difficulties in derailing the chain over the last year of regular use - perhaps I'm just lucky? Having just checked the chainring is unrampred so that might help to keep it seated - I also rarely if ever use either extreme of the cassette (more like a 1x5 to be honest).
I reckon have a test ride that requires quite a bit of shifting without a guide, if it's a problem get one otherwise just ride on!
Oh and I stumbled across the 1x8 setup in fairly organic fashion (i.e. front thumbie knackered) but with a lot of my riding only involving middle ring and never really being taken with this gearing lark it suits me pretty well. Now have a working front thumbie though so may fit a big ring as the unused cable stop for the top pull front mech spoils the otherwise clean lines - vanity at it's worst!
Regarding a chain guide or using a front mech I've not experienced difficulties in derailing the chain over the last year of regular use - perhaps I'm just lucky? Having just checked the chainring is unrampred so that might help to keep it seated - I also rarely if ever use either extreme of the cassette (more like a 1x5 to be honest).
I reckon have a test ride that requires quite a bit of shifting without a guide, if it's a problem get one otherwise just ride on!
Oh and I stumbled across the 1x8 setup in fairly organic fashion (i.e. front thumbie knackered) but with a lot of my riding only involving middle ring and never really being taken with this gearing lark it suits me pretty well. Now have a working front thumbie though so may fit a big ring as the unused cable stop for the top pull front mech spoils the otherwise clean lines - vanity at it's worst!
Wold Ranger
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Orange
Its a pre 93 Clockwork Simon. All the C16R's and post 93 had removeable binder clamps cut off level. Looks a big size for you tho? Wud a thought a 17 or 15. would be right? that's an 18 or 19 with the long head tube. Running the chain a bit shorter, as you don't need the length to cover the front triple an a short cage mech would stop the chain dropping. Total waste of time spoiling it with the chain device and spoils the lines, OnZa do a short cage mech with extra strong spring for single front 6/7/8/9 rear Trials set ups and they dont drop chains even when dropping 20 foot onto concrete on the back wheel. Just need a narrower axle to get the chainline right and/or run an inner ring on middle crankset. Why don't you try a 2x1 set up as a lighter weight option?
Its a pre 93 Clockwork Simon. All the C16R's and post 93 had removeable binder clamps cut off level. Looks a big size for you tho? Wud a thought a 17 or 15. would be right? that's an 18 or 19 with the long head tube. Running the chain a bit shorter, as you don't need the length to cover the front triple an a short cage mech would stop the chain dropping. Total waste of time spoiling it with the chain device and spoils the lines, OnZa do a short cage mech with extra strong spring for single front 6/7/8/9 rear Trials set ups and they dont drop chains even when dropping 20 foot onto concrete on the back wheel. Just need a narrower axle to get the chainline right and/or run an inner ring on middle crankset. Why don't you try a 2x1 set up as a lighter weight option?
Harryburgundy
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Looks really nice mate...sorry, forgot to tell you that the forks didn't have a star-nut in place as I was running a headlock system
Carl
Carl
No worries Carl... thanks for them forks, think they look spot on.. although may spray them black yet for a more stealthy look .. I am going to follow Eds advice on not using any sort of retention device on the front ring but keep the chain nice and tight.. reduced weight too This is the first Orange I have owned since my Formula BITD, which is sadly missed and doubt if I'll ever own another, due to the rarity of them.. :cry: lets just hope this C16/Clockwork brings back some memories eh!!
So future upgrades for this , if I keep her.. are a Ti Bottom Bracket and CK Headset a lighter seatpost..
Thanks for all your help and opinions so far... keep them coming..
.. I am going to follow Eds advice on not using any sort of retention device on the front ring but keep the chain nice and tight.. reduced weight too This is the first Orange I have owned since my Formula BITD, which is sadly missed and doubt if I'll ever own another, due to the rarity of them.. :cry: lets just hope this C16/Clockwork brings back some memories eh!! So future upgrades for this , if I keep her.. are a Ti Bottom Bracket and CK Headset a lighter seatpost..
Thanks for all your help and opinions so far... keep them coming..
Hey, it looks good!
99% sure it is a C16. Reasons..
- Similar to Clockwork
- No chainstay bridge
- About 3/4lb lighter than a Clockwork
- Had original paint and decals on before I had it powdercoated
(unless it was a factory respray, but would not have thought Orange would apply diff decals)
99% sure it is a C16. Reasons..
- Similar to Clockwork
- No chainstay bridge
- About 3/4lb lighter than a Clockwork
- Had original paint and decals on before I had it powdercoated
(unless it was a factory respray, but would not have thought Orange would apply diff decals)
