Olive green ano Pace RC200 F5 | parts needed / to swap

bishopdante

Dirt Disciple
Here is what I have so far:

[have marked items that are needed / should be replaced for the build in bold]

Frame: Pace RC200 F5

Fork: Pace RC36

Headset: Chris King NoThreadset 1"
Stem: Tioga box
Handlebar: Tioga Riser
Grips: ?


Brakes: XTR M950
Brake Pads: ?
Brake Cables: ?
Brake Levers: XTR M950

Shifters: XTR M952 with indicator removed
Rear Derailleur: XTR M950
Derailleur Cables: ?
Cassette: SRAM 5.0 8spd
Chain: ?
Cranks: L&M XC CNC
Chainrings: '80s Suntour 44t
Bottom Bracket: Not sure, definitely not a good one, plastic retaining insert, but serviceable for the moment
Pedals: ?


Hub Skewers: XTR M950
Rims: Mavic X517 SUP Ceramic
Front Hub: Specialized Stout
Rear Hub: XTR M950
Tyres: Vredstein Scarab
Tubes: ?

Saddle: Specialized something or other that was lying around
Seatpost: Thomson Elite
Seatpost Binder: is built into the frame

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The bike had been somewhat mauled, so had to remove & sort out lots of stuff. Snapped off seatpost bent & jammed in the seat tube (frame was luckily unharmed, built properly!). Various bolt heads had to be drilled etc, huge amount of overtightening, stripped heads etc, and horrible inappropriate parts fitted by a wrench-swinging hooligan. Swearing and bits of scaff pole were involved. All is well now, so it is just a question of adding the correct parts.

Will upload photos very shortly.

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Have a number of surplus parts in storage which I am liquidating, which I will photograph and upload for perusal.
 
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Am immensely pleased. Have been looking for one of these for 20 years!

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Handlebars & stem are a temporary fit up, just parts that were lying around, I quite like the boxy stem. Bit heavy tho.
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Shredded decals, pulled those off now. Does anybody know exactly which revision these are?

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The M950 levers use a very lightweight aluminium bolt, the heads of which had been stripped out to circular and had to be drilled out & basically destroyed to get the levers off the old handlebars.

Should have seen the state of the steel grub screws in the SRAM grip shift system that I pulled off, heads had been stripped out & had been done up so tight the bolts had punched holes in the *polished?!* charge handlebars that had been retrofitted.

I believe that these are exactly the same thread pitch and diameter as chainring bolts, so by procuring some 17mm extra long titanium bolts should sort that out. The original aluminium parts are seemingly unobtainable.
 
PARTS EXCHANGE:

Offered (photos shortly):

Ballistic CNC 1+1/8th" 25.5mm clamp long stem
Amoeba CNC 1+1/8th" 25.5mm clamp short stem
Token Pyrotec carbon seatpost
Hope Big 'Un pair of wheels red anodised w/20mm front axle w/ mavic SUP rims
Hope Sport 5 bolt pair of wheels red anodised w/shortened rear axle w/mavic SUP rims & Hope C2 Nº2 caliper + trunnion bar
White Bros UD150 forks
Un-ridden Stratos XC Pro air shock
Marin Mount Vision Mk1 w/mystery shimano silver axle bottom bracket
Hope C2 Nº3 caliper & lever (IS mount)
Hope C2 Nº5 caliper & lever (Post mount)

Wanted for RC200:

Hope / other decent Ti bottom bracket
1" threadless stem w/ 720mm-ish wide riser bars (either 31.9 or 25.4, or even 22.2)
Platform pedals, preferably with Ti axles
decent lightweight seat
M950 cassette
 
Re: Re:

boswell":2yibpa2r said:
bishopdante any pictures of your finished Pace?

I'll snap some.

Still using the Tioga bars and shimmed 1 1/8" stem, but it's now set up to rideable spec, being ridden about.

Was totally pleased that the M950 rear mech tolerates 9 speed, so I pulled out an XT I had knocking around and it worked like a breeze. That SRAM cassette skipped.

I have now met for the first time the "chris king creak" of the V1 nothreadset, which had me scratching my head some and causing paranoia that some sort of stress cracking might be occurring somewhere, but after some investigation it was a teething trouble issue with the design of the top section, using an elastomer O ring. The frame amplifies the sound remarkably.

Anybody know any cunning fixes for that? Apparently King does a retrofit top section which eliminates this problem? If I want it not to make ting ting ting click click click noises, then I have to take it all apart & re-seat it all, and it goes away for a day or two then comes back.

However, at least it isn't a broken type problem, so I'm riding about on it, and man did Pace get stuff right with the frame, the balance is fully incredible.

Only problem is it's a teeny bit on the small side for me at a lanky 6ft, but I have ridden BMXs in the past, so it's not like it's a problem. Think a long stem might be just the ticket.

Not sure if I should decal the bike, since I ride it in the city. It's quite stealthy as-is.
 
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