new project: 1936 professional racing bike

You need the changing fork as close to the cogs as possible...

Keith
There are some (encyclopedic) notes in one of the VCC publications on Osgears. I took the advice on board and set the changing fork rearward, just as Keith has advised. Crisp changes are made.
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That is very nice! I'm happy to have a "sister bike" here. These are modern hubs aren't they ?
Yes, I built clincher wheels as the originals are track style tubulars. Everything on the original wheels is perfect so I didn’t want to ruin them by riding, perhaps bending them. The original rims are a brand I’ve never heard of. The rear spacing is 114 mm and I used thinner bolts and spacer to take a 120 mm hub down to 114. My late 1920s Gloria also had 114 mm spacing but when I had a frame maker put new drops on it and do a track alignment I had him space it to 120 mm.
 
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You need the changing fork as close to the cogs as possible, it could need a shim in the chainstay clip. You would then have to bend the changing fork up a bit.
Also I can't see if you have the tension release connected. If you wind the tension arm up a bit it will change gear better. You will never know exactly which gear you'll get, but with practice a quick flick and put the gear lever in the same hole it came from usually did it.
The pros didn't like a tight chain or the bouncing bottom roller of the Simplex T de F.
I used one of these for a time in 1950 running 5 speed and 2 chainrings.

The real fun was the Paris Roubaix gear, I ran with 14 to 24 and 48/51 with handlebar end control for the front changer. Undo the wheel and pedal forward to change the front, so one hand on the left handlebar end and the other half way down the right hand seat stay.
Safe enough because if the wheel came too far forward it would touch the chainstay bridge and gravity would take over and it would run back up the ends.

Keith
Thank you
 
quick question: plastic was not there in the 30's , so what was in use then for cable housing ? brided cable housing ?
Some of my bikes from even the 50s had cloth covers on the cable housings, most had coiled steel covers, assuming that was original. Velo Orange used to make two different styles of coiled steel cable and housings. I’m not sure if they are available.

Here is an original coiled housing on an old Phillips brake, but im not sure of the age. It could be 30s to 50s.

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Here is the Velo Orange cable housing.

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what is the stem to seatpin string for on the black n yellow bike?
On the left side of the photo you can see a cable with a flat weight and carabiner. The carabiner clips to a loop in the brown rope. I have an electric hoist attached to a wood beam that slides on bearings out the second story man door so I can put 30 bicycles into my attic. It’s easy to bring them up and down for riding. There is a modified shop up there for minor repairs. 6F8E3881-0EF0-4099-8E1D-FB2EB2832DD8.jpeg C4F454D6-56CA-4A32-8005-6EE5B9A1A9D5.jpeg
 
Thanks guys, very helpful the pics. Seems then the most period correct would be the coild steel housing. The ones from Velo Orange are available, but look different. Now I'm tempted to put some color with the bar tape and cable housing, I like Big Block's pic. Maybe just crazy Friday afternoon thoughts but I'll play a little bit with handlebar tape colours, housings,...

In the meantime, here it is a pic of the bottom bracket oil port. That's what they call these bikes hand build!

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On the left side of the photo you can see a cable with a flat weight and carabiner. The carabiner clips to a loop in the brown rope. I have an electric hoist attached to a wood beam that slides on bearings out the second story man door so I can put 30 bicycles into my attic. It’s easy to bring them up and down for riding. There is a modified shop up there for minor repairs.View attachment 603106View attachment 603109
Awesome, that's another level ;)
 
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