new project: 1936 professional racing bike

[Big Block]

If you were interested in getting some textured cable outers, then search for Nissen products. They make 'French' and 'Italian' patterns.
Also, these colours are stocked on this Italian site.
I can't give advice on the durability of cotton tape in the rain. I live in what is often described as 'the driest state in the driest country' and I opt not to ride in the rain.
If you are happy with the colour and want to give some protection clear shellac is also an option. As a guide, when making choices for a bike project, I use Speedbicycles online museum as a reference. Just sort the bikes using the sort by year function, then closely examine the well-lit and well-composed photos.
Philip
Adelaide, South Australia

 

[jordic1968]

You need the changing fork as close to the cogs as possible, it could need a shim in the chainstay clip. You would then have to bend the changing fork up a bit.
Also I can't see if you have the tension release connected. If you wind the tension arm up a bit it will change gear better. You will never know exactly which gear you'll get, but with practice a quick flick and put the gear lever in the same hole it came from usually did it.
The pros didn't like a tight chain or the bouncing bottom roller of the Simplex T de F.
I used one of these for a time in 1950 running 5 speed and 2 chainrings.

The real fun was the Paris Roubaix gear, I ran with 14 to 24 and 48/51 with handlebar end control for the front changer. Undo the wheel and pedal forward to change the front, so one hand on the left handlebar end and the other half way down the right hand seat stay.
Safe enough because if the wheel came too far forward it would touch the chainstay bridge and gravity would take over and it would run back up the ends.

Keith

Hi Keith

I've mounted the rear mech and can't make it work , and that's simply because I haven't followed your advice to put the mech as close to the coggs as possible !!! - In my benefit I have to say it was a first attemp just to wire it all ...

Looking at my pic it your advice becomes clear: If the mech is too far from the coggs, when the tension is released the fork reaches the spokes and no change is made. Moving the mech closer to the coggs as you well suggested will not only make it much more efficient and so shift properly but will eliminate the noise of the chain touching the fork as well.

Next episode, I'll have it corrected

 

[keithglos]

First put the rear wheel into the most forward position. You have Osgear type ends, made specially to mount the wheel forward. At present you are about 2 inches too far back.

To avoid the chain rubbing on the changing fork a little movement of the gear lever is required. You move it a little and then back into the hole. The very short movement of the cable makes it totally inaccurate, but get the skill.

Perhaps you have never used gears with friction levers?

Keith

 

[jordic1968]

Finally I have been able to source a jockey wheel that was missing for the chain tensioner. Have adjusted it all a little bit and it works! Now pending the "dynamic" test , and figuring out how to attach an action camera to shoot the changing gears

 

[jordic1968]

Here it is my first attemp to record a video. I used a 2.5 mm wire to attach the action camera and although I run the video through a motion stabilizer, the result is not as clean as expected. I'll better try with the bike on a stand and the phone on a tripod.

It is true that the more forward the wheel is set, the better the shifting. The best should be to make use of these specific rear drop outs BUT my chain was too long for that and did not want to cut it.

https://imgur.com/a/y4VCcAT

 

[keithglos]

You have not yet put the wheel in the correct forward position which gets the changing fork closer to the cogs.
Thats what Osgear ends are for, so much better than standard ends.

Keith

 

[jordic1968]

You have not yet put the wheel in the correct forward position which gets the changing fork closer to the cogs.
Thats what Osgear ends are for, so much better than standard ends.

Keith

Absolutely right, but the problem is that my chain is too long, and do not want to cut it now.

 

[Nabeaquam]

Here it is my first attemp to record a video. I used a 2.5 mm wire to attach the action camera and although I run the video through a motion stabilizer, the result is not as clean as expected. I'll better try with the bike on a stand and the phone on a tripod.

It is true that the more forward the wheel is set, the better the shifting. The best should be to make use of these specific rear drop outs BUT my chain was too long for that and did not want to cut it.

https://imgur.com/a/y4VCcAT

I have vertical drops on mine. The rear shifter is not as far forward on the chain stay as yours and it shifts poorly. Someone here said it should be closer to the cogs. How does yours shift?

 

[jordic1968]

I have vertical drops on mine. The rear shifter is not as far forward on the chain stay as yours and it shifts poorly. Someone here said it should be closer to the cogs. How does yours shift?

Shifting is only acceptable. As Keith rightly says I should be using the correct forward position but my chain is too long and I'm too lazy to cut it now

 

[Nabeaquam]

Shifting is only acceptable. As Keith rightly says I should be using the correct forward position but my chain is too long and I'm too lazy to cut it now

Please let us know if you shorten it up and it works better. If you have improvement I’ll change mine. We’re in the middle of at least 16 days of winds, snow and rain. That’s as far as the long range forecast goes out. 100km stretches of highway along Lake Superior are closed here today because of a two day lake effect blizzard. It’s-10C with -20C wind chill today. I’m itching to work on bikes but it will have to wait. The wind has been howling so loud for two nights that I couldn’t sleep. Water in our toilet is sloshing around. I have a lot of small projects like this lined up and can hardly wait for better bike work weather.