New / old cyclist. Hybrid / road / MTB build

[grarea]

This is great stuff. I am very excited. I appreciate all the help.
Tyre technology really has come on since I last looked.

It is unlikely to be the prettiest build as it is on a shoestring.
But once I have the right frame, I can improve it over the years.

I had a stern talking to myself about bike bits.
I have seen what happens to people on here.
I really can understand it.
I am, however, tight on space. Which might be a blessing in disuise as I would definitely have a few bikes if I had the space.
So, I want to try and get one bike that is ideal.
*ignores all the sniggering in the background as people save the comment to point it out to me at a later date*

I was fiddling with old photos the other day and found these from when I was still at school.
So there is history.

MyAlbumName601 by chuffedas, on Flickr

MyAlbumName593 by chuffedas, on Flickr

 

[T'boo Ted]

Of course money no issue, you'd need one of these new fangled "gravel bikes' like a GT Grade or whatever, but thats not always possible.
I used to run a Ritchey Tom Slick years ago and more recently a Schwable Marathon when doing some commuting duties, seemed to work a lot better than than a regular mtb tyre on the road, nt perfect and compared to an actual road bike not as good.
Just to give you an idea of whats available (assuming it keeps the "26" selection):

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/e ... 4294957536

 

[grarea]

Yup, I amazed at the choices.
Right, so, no reason not to get a good ole MTB and no reason to go mucking about with 700c.
This makes me happy.
Right, geometry and frame sizes next.

Before, I just rode what I could get.
I was always uncomfortable. But did it anyway.
apparently not everyone gets numb legs in the firs 15 minutes.
(Discovered that saddles are different shapes)

Given all the options and available knowledge now, I shall try and get something I am comfortable on.
Is there a database of top tube lengths for various frames of around 1990?
Or is it a hunt for each one?
I have the figures for my mtb and my Raleigh so I can work from them.
The Raleigh is pretty close. But I want to be a bit more upright.

I think i have shorter arms and knee down compared to torso and hip to knee.
Ponders.....
So I want my saddle further back for pedalling, which you can get set back posts.
And a higher bar. But then I guess I get a longer stem riser as I might want to drop it later .....
hmmmmmm....

I wonder what the odds are of me getting it right this time?
Might need a couple of goes mightn't I?

 

[grarea]

So, I have read about material and stiffness.
From what I understand, my thinking is old fashioned. Well, huge surprise.

The stiffness of a frame doesn't make more efficient pedalling. It is only about feel.
They are efficient at returning the power as they rebound. Interesting reads out there.

Then, the material isn't that important re the harshness of the ride either.
It is more down to tyres and chain stay length and design. All good knowledge.

So, this just gets better and better.

I do like the look of the 1990 Marins. Always fancied one of those with the Matt paint.
Someone mentioned that the earlier ones have better road geometry.

How early please and what is better about the geometry?
Also, I am thinking i want one that didn't have suspension as I won't have suspension forks and they will be set up for that.

*gets tape measure out again*

 

[jaypee]

Re:

Can't go wrong with a nice 90-91 zolatone Marin Eldridge or pine mountain. Or slightly later too though without the zolatone (Matt paint)

 

[hamster]

Here is my 1990 Marin Palisades which I have run as a tourer for over 20 years...the lower end ones (Bear Valley & below) have shorter top tubes and so work better with drop bars. It will run any tyre size from 1" to 2.1"

 

[boswell]

Re:

Hi
I've done exactly what you are thinking about, I've always mountain biked but fancied a little more road mileage but seriously dislike "road bikes" so I bought a Pace RC200 F5 purely for road use (yeah I admit it has been hammered over Ilkley Moor.......Just the once!!) and it's been great.
All my little mods have been about making it quicker on road, the next thing will be to up the gearing with bigger chain rings but keeping a reasonable Granny for the local climbs.
Wheel size is irrelevant, speed on the road is all about:
1 The rider
2 The gearing
3 Rolling resistance
4 Aerodynamics (the Pace being old skool small frame high seat post longish stem means the stretched out riding position is only bettered by roadies when they are on their drops.......but most I meet in the Yorkshire Dales are sat up on the hoods!)

Build something like this and upset the local roadies.

 

[grarea]

Here is my 1990 Marin Palisades which I have run as a tourer for over 20 years...the lower end ones (Bear Valley & below) have shorter top tubes and so work better with drop bars. It will run any tyre size from 1" to 2.1"

Excellent stuff.

Hi
I've done exactly what you are thinking about, I've always mountain biked but fancied a little more road mileage but seriously dislike "road bikes"

Build something like this and upset the local roadies.

This is all great stuff. Yes, I just didn't want to launch at a frame until I was sure about the tyre thing.

I have been scratching my head a bit about what frame. Mainly geometry.
I have been using this:
IMGP8378 by chuffedas, on Flickr

(It isn't as stumpy as it looks there it is the camera angle)
Admire the close up of the colour:
IMGP8379 by chuffedas, on Flickr

anyway, I can't get very far yet down to the obvious initial pains to try out set ups.
(It will be a while before I am challenging the roadies boswell )

I have generally been in pain on bikes but done it anyway, so would like to try and be a bit more comfortable this time.

I think i want a bit more sit up and beg than where i am at now and probably set back a bit more.

Hmmmmm
I think i might take some time tomorrow and think about this......

 

[boswell]

Re:

In what way have you been in pain?

 

[grarea]

Well, now you are asking.
Various discomfort on various bikes.
Never really thought much about it.

I have recently discovered that different shaped saddles make quite a difference.
Turns out your legs and feet aren't meant to go numb after 15 minutes.......

I have mostly felt kind of cramped and stretched out on the same frame.
I find myself setting the saddle right back and still trying to push myself back to pedal.
I also find myself wanting the bars to be further away. Yet, I find too much pressure on my hands.
I have often found myself riding on my finger tips.

The only thing i get right is saddle height. (Almost straight legs but without body roll)

Anyway, there is a lot to this isn't there?
I guess many people are either just lucky, work hard at getting it right or hate cycling.
On the plus side, with all the various styles and sizes out there plus various saddle stems and bars, I can
actually get this right. Drooool.....


I have just sat down and had a good think about this.
I am 5'7-5'8. Inside leg (trousers) 29".
However, I think that my femur and torso are longer in comparison. With my shin and arms being shorter.

*thinks aloud a bit more at the risk of boring any readers that are left*
So, this would make sense.
I am trying to push myself back to get over the pedals properly. (longer thigh)
Then I am struggling to reach the bars.
But this confuses me bacause I want it to be further away (torso) but I guess that leads to more pressure on the hands.
So, what I want is the length of the top tube and a higher stem.

Right, so I am basically going to be touring (It will look like touring from the outside anyway. Inside I will be at full pelt )

So, first things first, I suspect is that saddle position in relation to pedals.
Then top tube length. (Or rather saddle to bars i guess.) So this can vary somewhat with all of the stem lengths available.
Then bar height.......

*wanders off again*