My First build help/advice steel Marin Team Marin frame save

[TchoMec]

Hi Retrobikers,

Here below is my first project. The frame is identical to this one in the following link..(the serial numbers are almost the same!).....if you read it..basically the frame has Superlight Tubing (my first question is Superlight triple butted or just thinner walls?) as per a Team Issue the only difference is an Ultrastrong seattube, whereas a Team Issue got a Superlight deformed at the bottom bracket seattube.

viewtopic.php?t=70898

How would you all classify this frame...a top draw steel frame with the geometry of the era, I don't just mean it was made to run rigid...or something trying for top end but not quite there? Of the mass produced steel frames...this was one of the best was it not?, putting it at the bottom of the top end pile?

I would really like help with Restoration questions under the pictures below.
The questions I'd like some feedback on are as follows for the build

1. should I go rigid with the 1" triple butted specialized DD (these are off a 1991 rigid M2. Marin headtube is 1.125 (does this run as normal with the right headset) or put the as I found it Manitou2s back on (just discovered I might be able to save them...bike was made for rigid Rockstars (how much lighter or better would Rockstars be or not be, weight of DD triple forks ? my DD are 385 AtC and 38° rake...did Manitous change tjhe geometry alot?
2. Should I make this a 1993 catalogue copy (as I have the Marin Lite stem (can anyone get me the Wheel)..or use my parts which I think are all >1993 and make a 1x10 with a Wolf tooth and make it light.
3. Are the F.I.R ea10 190 rims >1993? i think so but not sure...are they well respected rims..top end or not?..Manitou 2 s same date wise??
4. What bottom bracket shall I use, are original to this frame Titec Titanium BB difficult to get hold of...ti (light)alternatives?
5. What axle length for a homemade 1x11 and any suggestions for a 74BCD crank welcome...including suggestions on wisdom of Toplines and buying the right bolt on spider. Other 1993 cranks that would allow this...cook...cqp...grafton...would like 180mm cranks too)
6.What hubs?...Rear...my heart is saying Mavic 571...tempted by Ti axles (are White Industries 1993 and Ti axle..TNT are only Ti body?)....will both of these allow a Hyper c body for an 11-36 ? Would a93 Hügi be a good choice (pre Star Ratchet (what is that?!) front: Ringlé or 571..best spokes..triple or double? have spokes changed alot ? (!)
7. If I ran this with a Disk Drive..the EA10s are 36h...does it give some suspension? extra weight? Good ride?
8. What are the best modern tyres for a rigid bike...could I run 2.5" tyres on this?!
9. Headset.....i don't want a King....XC pro GG..WTB GG..
10. Manitou 2s...elastomer bolt end in one leg has snapped leaving the end screwed in to the adjuster..the barrell for the adjuster has snapped off the end of the adjuster so nothing protrudes...how can I save these..spring conversion kit...should I stick to elastomers...how hard to get a left leg (for the fork!)

Waiting for your replies...enjoy the pics...kind of go Good, Bad..Worse

 

[TchoMec]

Re:

Sorry another one.....Is the Flight saddle later than 1993?

 

[brocklanders023]

Re:

Cor, lots of questions!

I like these frames and they're certainly worth saving. I'd class it as pretty top draw for a Far East frame, about as good as they made. I know others will disagree but I see some of the big manufactures top bikes from the early 90's as more desirable then some of the boutique brands as not many would have been sold.

Flite looks later then 1993 to me.

I don't think you will be able to use 1" threaded forks with a 1 1/8th steerer. You could if using a non-threaded headset + forks. I'd go with the Manitou.

Personally I'd build it as close to original spec as possible but that's really your choice.

Not sure about the rims but the forks were top end along with the Pace RC35's and Rockshox Mag20's.

I don't worry about period correct bb's and just buy ones that work.

Decent Disk Drive will cost a fortune. I wouldn't bother with this build.

Like the bb I wouldn't worry about the headset too much. Maybe get one that matches the groupset?

Hope that's some help.

 

[marc two tone]

Re:

Firstly, it's good to see another marin getting some restoration.

I think the seat q/r is original, they were nothing special on the team bikes, not the holey type i mean. just lightweight. That's the case with the '95 teams anyway...

I would take it to be powdercoated satin silver and get some fresh decals, considering most of your decals have gone now anyway, this will cost some notes but save you scrubbing away like a good 'un only to have a dull and battle-scarred frame...just an idea though!

Forks...the addage with manitou is the maintenance, the elastomers alone may set you back £30. If they are ok and you can get them back together...then they will go well with that frame, probably a shop option anyway back in 1993/4/5.

Or just pick up some 1.1/8" rigid forks. They don't have to be rockstars, just some similar steel ones.

That's all i have to say right now. i will look out for progress!

 

[TchoMec]

Thanks.......two replies now...this one received while replying to the first.....i now feel a sense of responsibility coming on.

time to get to work.....

 

[hamster]

Personally I'd build it as a rigid singlespeed. It would be stupidly light and allow the frame to do what it does best - aggressive climbing. Personally I would add a triple butted P2 410mm fork, only because i know that they work with the geometry as I did the same on a 1994 Pine Mtn.

After that go as bling as you like with hubs etc.

 

[TchoMec]

Re:

Thanks for the feedback Brocklander and being first out of the box with a reply,

catalogue replicator would probably be the best thinking about it...would probably give best chance of BoTM too.... As tempting as white Syncros powerlites with the matching black decals and red anodising those rims is...powerlites are going for more in pounds than I paid in bucks in 1992, I had 1" steerer ones too and didn't avoid import taxes, I swapped them in the end for Grab on grips, light tubes and a pair of 1.9" panaracer xc pros! if only I'd got White Onza porcupines!!!...if it were a Team Issue..harder decision.

I've read and heard these feel fast...if it climbs anywhere close to my 91 m2 i'll be impressed, that had some spring like steel too climbing as it had thick tubes but was phenomenal climbing and more forgiving than you'd think over the bumps....I chose an m2 over one of these and it was very close (Tange Ultimate and Afterburners v MMC m2 exotica distinctly remember staring at the catalogue in Physics) had a StumpJumper with xcpro before which was stolen and it was a very stretched riding position....will hopefully be able to adjust to the looooooong toptube...will go for a catalogue replicator first and get her set up right...hopefully Ill bump into some nice bits and bargains too


Thanks again for the advice.

 

[TchoMec]

Hi hamster,

interesting thought and Ive never had a singlespeed.....do they make you stronger...Ive heard they do...where do you notice it most when you're back on a geared bike? Ive heard if you want to get fitter and are short on time SS is the way to go....If you're in the New Forest...I take it there are still lots of decent long climbs?...did your pine mountain have front suspension or did you upgrade the marin rigid fork?

 

[marc two tone]

Re:

This is a mountain bike, gears would be good, single speed? that's bmx isn't it?

There is another section on this site for that.

Sorry, just apathetic messin' about, do with it as you will*

7 speed cassettes/chains and nice lightweight gripshift are plentyful, that's the path to go.


*if this bike gets single speed' i'll scream til i'm sick.

 

[gerryattrick]

Re:

They are very good frames. I've just finished my 92 Team Issue rebuild, slightly different to your frame in that it has a fluted down tube.......

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=312744

The nickel-plating on mine was probably a bit worse than yours so I've used a very fine sander to polish up the steel at the rusted areas and have temporarily painted those areas with clear varnish for protection. It's not brilliant so later in the year I will probably get it powdercoated – the frame is worth it!