My bikes.

can I suggest you put a capacitor in between the light and the dynamo before you mock it to much.




it won't fix anything, the light will still be shit, but it will make me giggle that you tried it. :)

now, here, take this but remember if you dynamo stays on for more than 24 hours to seek the help of a professional (I suggest @benjabbi)

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You need a tyre with a decent rubber covered sidewall to drive one of those dynamos enough to produce a halfway decent output and then if the dynamo doesn't touch the tyre *just* right it'll either skip or cut a groove right through to the inner tube. IMO, the only good (for a given value of 'good') tyre-driven dynamos were (are?) the ones that run on the face of the tyre tread like the Sanyo Dynapower.
 
You need a tyre with a decent rubber covered sidewall to drive one of those dynamos enough to produce a halfway decent output and then if the dynamo doesn't touch the tyre *just* right it'll either skip or cut a groove right through to the inner tube. IMO, the only good (for a given value of 'good') tyre-driven dynamos were (are?) the ones that run on the face of the tyre tread like the Sanyo Dynapower.
I agree the b/b dynamos are far superior, tend to not last long because they get showered in road crap sadly. This is definitely a limp spring in this case. the Miller dynamos have a much stronger spring, which as you say will cut through the side wall. My opinion on bottle dynamos is unchanged. They are just crap.
 
A 19 to 22 cc innertube sits nice over the contact wheel. Add 5 or 6 to up the diameter from its piddle little thing to something with a bit more torque.

I've got one here I've never used but might go and do an experiment with the 3d printer to make a bike wheel.
 
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