modern forks on retro frames

I lobbed some 100mm R7's on a '95 yeti to see what it felt like. A week later it was back on the 3's.. . basically, moral of the story is match the eras correctly, geometry has progressed with the travel..
 
I'm running 100mm Magura Asgards on my '94 Explosif singlespeed and, I have to say, I really like the setup.
I run the Asgards at about 25% sag and by tuning the oil levels/air pressures in the two chambers they use all their travel on occasion but don't blow through the midrange too easily. Even without any lockout facility climbing is good too, without much bobbing.

My favourite bike at the minute anyway - I took my 2007 RM Blizzard out for a couple of hours yesterday evening and I'm sure that I would have enjoyed the ride more on one of my singlespeeds....even with a few stiff climbs :cool:

The only unfortunate thing is that with this frame there is no "magic ratio" to let me run it without a tensioner - or not for a ratio that is usable anyway. Currently running 32:18 but may try 32:20 - I don't ride more than a mile or two on the road anyway so I could live with the spinniness in exchange for slightly lower gearing for the short steep climbs out of gullies etc.
 

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Me likey that explosif :cool:

When fitting suspension forks back in the day it was important to move the saddle forward to get the seatangle back to an angle that the bike could still climb with - or you end up with rearward bias, a bike that doesn't like to climb with a tendency to give the rider a sore back - fun on the doonhalls though. Bikes with a longer than normal top tube suit this - ie Kona's as opposed to Giants.

It's about the geometry not just the head angle - try moving the seat forward to get the bike to climb well again.

I'm not adverse to modern kit on old frames, I run 1998 Bombers on my 93 Lloyd frame - but it has a 1" headtube so I am severely limited to what I can run. The Bombers at 75mm?? travel are about right - I would not want to go longer.
My 1999 Trek 8900 was designed for 70-80mm forks but I have always run it with 100mm - saddle moved forward on the rails to get the seat angle correct for me :roll:
 
i dont remember where i read it but i've always used the "20mm longer is ok" rule of thumb
 
cce":3v6yux8l said:
i dont remember where i read it but i've always used the "20mm longer is ok" rule of thumb

I have an email from Kona US stating this as the case.

Still mine are 37mm longer :roll: :oops:
 
messiah":21c7d4jo said:
Me likey that explosif :cool:

When fitting suspension forks back in the day it was important to move the saddle forward to get the seatangle back to an angle that the bike could still climb with - or you end up with rearward bias, a bike that doesn't like to climb with a tendency to give the rider a sore back - fun on the doonhalls though. Bikes with a longer than normal top tube suit this - ie Kona's as opposed to Giants.

Glad you like it :cool:. It's the same vintage as that one of yours - the burgundy with blue decals, which I think is '94 ? A pity I have to use a tensioner, but it works fine. I would have fitted track ends to it but that would have been a problem with using a disc brake

As far as moving the saddle forward you're perfectly correct (of course !). You'll see I'm using an in-line Thomson post and the saddle is quite far forward on the rails as well. The top tube is long enough to let me do this and still use an 80mm stem too.
 
Andy R.

When I did the trackends I considered going disk... but I decided to do it as cheaply as possible and keep it for the components I had on it.

I also had the idea of running it fixie floating about in my head so it had to keep the V-brakes. ;)

Another reason for keeping it cheap... knowing my luck if I fixed it up and got it sprayed etc it would break the next week :roll:

I ran it with 63mm Manitou Mach5 forks BITD, but it rides so much better with the rigid forks (The Manitou's were wrecked; when I stripped the damper it was empty and very corroded... which may explain why they felt so awful :p ).
 
messiah,

I did the conversion of mine cheaply too - in other words, I did the disc conversion and the spraying myself and all the components are bits that I managed to get for a fraction of their new value.

Makes it even better, in my opinion :LOL:
 
Modern forks

I've got 2003 MX Comps on my 96 Zaskar - 100mm travel but ETA dial can shorten this to 30mm for climbs, and although it would have been designed for 65mm I find that a with a shortish stem it still handles as well as my newer bikes. It doesn't look that different form modern GT geometry either.
 

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I `ve got 2001 bombers on my 1990 american comp lite,and it feels loverly-but i have been riding rigid on the YO and the monster for about 4 years so i dont have much to compare it too.They do jack the front end up a bit,as it`s not suspention corrected but i like it,as it gives it a sloping top tube instead of it being flat
 
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