merlin

Hi Terry - last post, for the time being at any rate! I've checked the inside diameter of the seat-tube, and it looks as if the tubing is 531 plain gauge rather than butted - from which I infer that the frame was designed for touring rather than racing, so it's unlikely to be an Internationale (the braze-ons for a rack also suggest that it was built as a tourer). Best regards, Bob
 
The seat tube size is only an indication. Some manufacturers used thicker gauge tube (or reamed them out less) for the seat tube on frames with butted tubes. Bates and Claud Butler come to mind, where a 26.8 seatpost was often used for their 531DB frames.

The best guide is to weigh the bare frame. If it is less than 2kg it is almost certainly double butted tubing - not that there is anything wrong with 531 plain gauge, which is arguably better in some applications, such as touring. My 24in size db frames generally weigh somewhere between 1870 and 2000 grams. Should probably be using lbs but my kitchen scales are in grams!

I am also a new Merlin owner seeking more information. Mine is probably 1940s, possibly pre war, frame number 64x76 on the right side rear dropout, which is a bit of a strange number. The fork steerer carries 64676, but with the middle 6 in a smaller font. It also has the number 102 on the bottom bracket and on the steerer tube. Will post up some pictures soon in a new thread.
 
The Merlinis, as Terry has already remarked, were obviously pretty casual when it came to frame numbering! On the plain-gauge/butted issue, I agree that it don't really matter - except that if you're doing a resto, you should at least TRY to attach the correct sticker...
 
Re:

Hi, the serial number for Merlin is not obvious, these codes should translate into the sales ledger , hence may framebuilders would use a date code of some description, or just do them sequentially, but the meaning of Merlin serial number has been lost in the mists of time, unless there's a code breaker in the house. Terry
 
The more numbers you've got, the easier it would be to break the code. Maybe someone - not me! - should collate all known pre-1950 Merlin frame numbers, then try to put them in sequence according to date...
 
A good idea in theory, but from the very limited research that I have done, it seems that the numbers don't go in sequence, or rather, the sequence changed a number of times over the years, and an increased number of digits doesn't necessarily imply a later date frame. As Terry says, it needs a good code breaker...

As for trying to go for the correct 531 decal, I shouldn't worry too much. The makers often didn't bother. I have an Ernie Clements in original finish with a 531 decal proclaiming 531 frame tubes, but I know that it is 531 throughout with double butted main tubes. I guess the paint man just grabbed whatever was to hand and stuck it on. Hetchins didn't put a 531 sticker on at all, on the basis that every frame they made was 531 and everyone knew it!
 
Slightly off topic, but I was trawling through Nick Tithecott's record of Reynolds decals in search of the 'right' one for my Merlin when I read Old School Hero's interesting comment on 'correctness'. This got me thinking about the question of 'restoration' in general: what are people's views on the subject? I've always acted on the principle that 'it's only original once' - i.e. if the paintwork/decals are original, preserve 'em; but if the frame has already been resprayed (badly, in the case of the Merlin), it's legitimate to have it restored. But I have an early 50's frame, supplied by Southern Cycles (a long-defunct Clapham bike-shop) & built by Bill Hurlow. It's certainly 'original', but in a really terrible state: most of the paint has gone, plus it's rusty & badly pitted. Do I send it to Argos for restoration, or leave it 'dans son jus' as the French say?
 
Reckon that's a subject for a new thread, but beware, you could be opening a can of worms!

In my view, it's your bike, so do what you want. I would retain original paint if it is good or very unusual (special lining,for example), but most old frames would merit refinishing. But that's only one opinion. Oh yes, and don't mistake rust for patina. There is a difference.

But we are getting off subject here. This thread is about Merlin Cycles.

As for Nick's list of Reynolds transfers, it is not totally accurate but is a good guide nonetheless. Some types go back earlier than stated, and some later.
 
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