Magura HS info

[gtRTSdh]

There is a lot of up down play in the lever at 90 segrees to the normal movement of my magura's - is it an easy fix?

Also quite a lot of lever movement before the pads move - although when I replaced the line I may have left the reach adjustment screw screwed in.

Any thoughts?

Tighten the lever bolt to reduce the play, but stop before the lever binds.

If the master piston (brake lever) is moving before the pads then there is air in the system.

 

[hamster]

As the system is sealed, if you left the wear adjusters screwed in then the system is under filled. For reach adjusters it is also a problem if you then backed them off.
You would need to fit the filling syringe and connect it without bubbles, then back off the adjusters. The extra fluid will be drawn in. Close up as normal.

 

[secret_squirrel]

Do all of them have wear adjusters? I've only seen the little grub screw that does reach. For that matter what's the fool proof way to tell the model - mine don't seem to have anything but race line written on them. Thanks for the advice btw - I would have done a full bleed.

 

[My_Teenage_Self]

Do all of them have wear adjusters? I've only seen the little grub screw that does reach. For that matter what's the fool proof way to tell the model - mine don't seem to have anything but race line written on them. Thanks for the advice btw - I would have done a full bleed.

I've a set of the first hydrostops, and yes, they have the wear adjuster, it's the small allen key rod behind the lever into the master cylinder, same on my HS11s.

For oil, I use this:

£5 for a litre from my local motor factors.

The best tip I've read for Maggies, is to remove your tyre when you set them up. Take your time, set them up once, and never touch them again. Perfect!

Models... I'm not 100%, but I think the following:

Original Hydrostops/HS22, late 80s>mid 90s (I've an original 94 bike with these on):

Mid 90s; (95>?)
HS11 was their lower range brake, and the long-lever version had a resin bodied lever rather than alloy;

HS 33 raceline, note long lever, rounded body, all alloy;

Later 90s, the rounded body gained a shorter lever with wear adjust dial:

2004, lever body changes:

Dunno much beyond that, as the levers became crap.

Colours don't mean much mainly special editions. They've used the same slave cylinders since the start.


I <3 Maguras.

 

[gtRTSdh]

your 2004 lever model was more like 99/00, that's when my first pair like that were bought, and still going strong!

 

[gtRTSdh]

hs11's, hs22's & hs33's had respectively decreasing master cylinder diameters to increase mechanical advantage, but this meant the adjuster was needed to stop the lever hitting the bar as the piston displaced less fluid.

 

[secret_squirrel]

Aha - thanks for that - mine are the spitting image of the hs33 racelines.

 

[markwashington]

There are Evo 2 fitting kits available here for £20, I've just bought one so I'll see if it's the bargain it appears to be!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Full-set-Back ... 3a83818a0a

 

[hamster]

Do all of them have wear adjusters? I've only seen the little grub screw that does reach. For that matter what's the fool proof way to tell the model - mine don't seem to have anything but race line written on them. Thanks for the advice btw - I would have done a full bleed.

There are two grub screws.
The first is on the outer face of the lever and sets up the reach. The second is behind the lever pivot point, and is used to take up wear. On later levers this is replaced by a plastic ridged adjuster on the front face of the lever.

 

[thesurfbus]

I have just bought a set identical to the 2004 Racelines in the last picture above, and mine are dated 98.