Magura HS info
- Thread starter FluffyChicken
- Start date
if you ever need to get the Magura bleed kit then the Disc bleed kit has the same fittings as the Rim Bake bleed kit.
Magura Blood - buy your own, it's cheaper elsewhere for mineral oil, or use H2o at a push.
As above, I think they are great brakes, had some HS33's on a previous bike and in the 10 years I owned them all I had to do was change the pads occasionally.
Great, unless you like to spend lots of time fettling your bike
Magura Blood - buy your own, it's cheaper elsewhere for mineral oil, or use H2o at a push.
As above, I think they are great brakes, had some HS33's on a previous bike and in the 10 years I owned them all I had to do was change the pads occasionally.
Great, unless you like to spend lots of time fettling your bike
poweredbypies
Old School Grand Master
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If Carlsberg made brakes, all they would do is rebrand some maggies. Got a set of hs11's must be 15 year old never had a bleed just pad changes and have been on several bikes. Good source for help and info is
http://www.support-english.magura.com/index.php
http://www.support-english.magura.com/index.php
I've got four or five sets of magura's.
Do they need bleeding test - the pads should move as soon as you the brake lever depresses the piston.
The brakes need to be bled with the lever reach adjustment (for small hands) backed off fully. If yours have one, the red dial (does the same as a barrel adjuster) needs to be wound out. Be ware of 2nd hand brakes that suffer from this (I've had both instances).
Magura blood is a bit pricey, but you use so little it's irrelevant to a set of brake blocks, and it never needs changing. If you're ultra tight then the fluid used for citreon oleo pneumatic suspension is really cheap.
Evo II mounts - brilliant - but they're not as versatile as the original system so don't throw the old ones out. e.g. on the back of my MT Vision they can't be used and I can't run a brace at all.
Poorly made? I've never broken any parts of mine and I must have fitted and refitted at least 15 times in total now. Use copper slip on the M5 bolts.
Learning to bleed them is stressful, don't take them apart or cut the hoses down unless you really need to. With care, it is possible to cut the hoses down to shorten them without bleeding as long as you don't spill any fluid. Bleeding them on the bike is twice as hard.
If you haven't got the correct fluid use anything other then brake fluid, water vegetable oil etc.
The slave cylinders (brake pad end) can't be dismantled.
Gloves should be worn when dealing with magura blood, it stinks on your hands afterwards.
The important trick when bleeding them is to depress the syringe when you're unscrewing the syringe fitting thus filling the void you're creating with fluid.
Do they need bleeding test - the pads should move as soon as you the brake lever depresses the piston.
The brakes need to be bled with the lever reach adjustment (for small hands) backed off fully. If yours have one, the red dial (does the same as a barrel adjuster) needs to be wound out. Be ware of 2nd hand brakes that suffer from this (I've had both instances).
Magura blood is a bit pricey, but you use so little it's irrelevant to a set of brake blocks, and it never needs changing. If you're ultra tight then the fluid used for citreon oleo pneumatic suspension is really cheap.
Evo II mounts - brilliant - but they're not as versatile as the original system so don't throw the old ones out. e.g. on the back of my MT Vision they can't be used and I can't run a brace at all.
Poorly made? I've never broken any parts of mine and I must have fitted and refitted at least 15 times in total now. Use copper slip on the M5 bolts.
Learning to bleed them is stressful, don't take them apart or cut the hoses down unless you really need to. With care, it is possible to cut the hoses down to shorten them without bleeding as long as you don't spill any fluid. Bleeding them on the bike is twice as hard.
If you haven't got the correct fluid use anything other then brake fluid, water vegetable oil etc.
The slave cylinders (brake pad end) can't be dismantled.
Gloves should be worn when dealing with magura blood, it stinks on your hands afterwards.
The important trick when bleeding them is to depress the syringe when you're unscrewing the syringe fitting thus filling the void you're creating with fluid.
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Fluffy - get some. You're a good mechanic and you know your stuff. Buy a decent pair and set them up nicely and you'll probably never have to do anything except change pads. I've just got some of the brown looking HS22's to go on my Kilauea (as I had them originally on it) and they've never been bled but work 100%. They really are reliable and transform a retro bikes brakes BUT still can be period correct.
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Trying to post again... third day lucky...
I have plenty of blood, two long tubes with knobs on the end. new pads for when needed.
As mentioned they are red Tomac 33's which I guess is a marketing colour scheme. a dial on them says 1997 which I just remembered about.
I'm not near them to check anything
they do have one pad go in before the other so hopefully figure out how to get them even.
now they work, they don't need a fettle much. they need a clean and paint really. but I like to know how to pull apart and set them up. plus the outers are black and I'll want grey or a silver braid.
so if I'm not going to be fettling them for 10 years I may as well do it now. seems I have everything I need to get them done now. well time wold be good
I have plenty of blood, two long tubes with knobs on the end. new pads for when needed.
As mentioned they are red Tomac 33's which I guess is a marketing colour scheme. a dial on them says 1997 which I just remembered about.
I'm not near them to check anything
they do have one pad go in before the other so hopefully figure out how to get them even.
now they work, they don't need a fettle much. they need a clean and paint really. but I like to know how to pull apart and set them up. plus the outers are black and I'll want grey or a silver braid.
so if I'm not going to be fettling them for 10 years I may as well do it now. seems I have everything I need to get them done now. well time wold be good
Don't worry about one pad moving before the other - provided they both withdraw and clear the wheel you are fine. Sticky slave pistons are rare. Typically the slave with the hose junction moves its pad very slightly first, as there is a little more hydraulic resistance for the slave on its own. The force exerted by each on the rim will be the same though.
secret_squirrel
Senior Retro Guru
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There is a lot of up down play in the lever at 90 segrees to the normal movement of my magura's - is it an easy fix?
Also quite a lot of lever movement before the pads move - although when I replaced the line I may have left the reach adjustment screw screwed in.
Any thoughts?
Also quite a lot of lever movement before the pads move - although when I replaced the line I may have left the reach adjustment screw screwed in.
Any thoughts?
