MacRetro chat and rides thread

Re:

How long you had it?
My gorerex gets washed a few times each winter as performance definitely drops when it’s dirty.
 
Re: Re:

clubby":jiyitxay said:
IME there’s no point in a full waterproof at this time of year. They’re just too hot and don’t breath well enough for high intensity activities such as cycling.

It's Rob we're talking about remember :lol:
 
Re: Re:

clubby":3alzwc1b said:
How long you had it?
My gorerex gets washed a few times each winter as performance definitely drops when it’s dirty.
Tail end of 2017 I think, and maybe used it a dozen times.
 
Re:

I read an article in a climbing/mountaineering magazine I use to get many years ago about Goretex and how breathable it is.
In ideal conditions, i.e. not in normal use the way everybody actually uses Goretex jackets, it is perfectly breathable but ideal conditions almost means laboratory conditions. Goretex needs vapour pressure to push out the moisture as vapour molecules which are small enough to pass through the pores in the Goretex membrane. To maintain this vapour pressure it has to be warm enough inside jacket so that it does not condense into water which cannot pass through the pores as the water molecules are too big. This is also how Goretex stops rain getting in.

Jackets need to be almost sealed to create the warm atmosphere which will maintain this vapour pressure. If, as we all do, wear a jacket with zip down a bit or sleeve cuffs open because we are too warm, or hem of jacket is open which most are normally, we allow the interior of jacket to cool down so there is no vapour pressure. Damp/wet patches then occur.
If there then is a layer of actual moisture on inside of jacket it cannot pass through and the water vapour cannot either.
That is also why jackets have to be cleaned and occasionally re-proofed so that rain balls up and runs off the outer fabric, if it gets wet the vapour cannot pass through it after passing through the pores in Goretex. Probably the inner fabric also needs to be clean and proofed as well for same reasons.

Some of the above may be me misremembering but it is essentially why most folk moan about their "waterproof" :roll: jackets.
 
Re:

old_coyote_pedaller":1q75h884 said:
I read an article in a climbing/mountaineering magazine I use to get many years ago about Goretex and how breathable it is.
In ideal conditions, i.e. not in normal use the way everybody actually uses Goretex jackets, it is perfectly breathable but ideal conditions almost means laboratory conditions. Goretex needs vapour pressure to push out the moisture as vapour molecules which are small enough to pass through the pores in the Goretex membrane. To maintain this vapour pressure it has to be warm enough inside jacket so that it does not condense into water which cannot pass through the pores as the water molecules are too big. This is also how Goretex stops rain getting in.

Jackets need to be almost sealed to create the warm atmosphere which will maintain this vapour pressure. If, as we all do, wear a jacket with zip down a bit or sleeve cuffs open because we are too warm, or hem of jacket is open which most are normally, we allow the interior of jacket to cool down so there is no vapour pressure. Damp/wet patches then occur.
If there then is a layer of actual moisture on inside of jacket it cannot pass through and the water vapour cannot either.
That is also why jackets have to be cleaned and occasionally re-proofed so that rain balls up and runs off the outer fabric, if it gets wet the vapour cannot pass through it after passing through the pores in Goretex. Probably the inner fabric also needs to be clean and proofed as well for same reasons.

Some of the above may be me misremembering but it is essentially why most folk moan about their "waterproof" :roll: jackets.

Wise words from the auld fella :wink:
 
If you want breathable, a thick hairy wool jumper with natural wool does the job.
I often use this in the StrathPuffer and carry a Pertex top for when it actually rains (as opposed to Scotch mist and light drizzle)
 
Re:

Ah Brian! There you are! I've been meaning to ask you what you use to make compressionless / linear brake lines for your bikes? And where to get it from?
I'll be setting some TRP Spyes up soon and want to get the best out of them (the last cable disc brakes I tried were BB5 copies and used regular brake cable, suffice it to say they slowed you rather than stopping you...
 
Alloy tubing from B&Q for the outer. Use it for the places where the outer does not have to flex.
You can carefully bend the tubing into shape with just your thumbs, but get it right because it doesn't like being bent back if you over do it (nothing bad happens, it just doesn't look 'right')
Can't remember the size but also get the next size up because you can cut short bits of that to superglue on to the ends to make a home for the flexible bits of outer you'll need.
You'll also need a liner. I use a suitable diameter of teflon air hose. (I think the company I get it from is called Airlines)
Also useful is one of those flexible V-Brake noodles.

Here's an old post from mtbr.com which has some pics https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/ragle ... 15927.html
 
Re:

Hi guys
Am currently sitting in a pub in Stockton on Tees ready for the VCC Jack Taylor ride in North Yorkshire tomorrow. It’s taken me about 9 hours and 450 miles so far since I left work yesterday.
One consolation was I had to detour through Durham to pick up a 1963 frame I bought a couple of months back.
It came with a set of wheels and while the frame may have been built, it was never used and the wheels are are as built. Never used. Sachs hubs and Dutch tubs 27 x 1 1/4 built by race wheels Birmingham. Found in the guys mother in laws loft and believed to be her husbands sisters husband. Unfortunately they are long gone and the sister in law has dementia, so after several months the trail comes to a dead end. It was just found when clearing out the mother in laws loft in a bin bag. Several chips but as good as new. Well pleased.
 
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