MacRetro chat and rides thread
- Thread starter kaiser
- Start date
Re:
Personally I would do it if it got a lot of beach/bad weather use or if it was ultra thin like prestige. Generally all I do with mine is spray a bit of gt85 into the downtube and the little holes at the end of the tubes once in a while.... or buy titanium and stop worrying
Personally I would do it if it got a lot of beach/bad weather use or if it was ultra thin like prestige. Generally all I do with mine is spray a bit of gt85 into the downtube and the little holes at the end of the tubes once in a while.... or buy titanium and stop worrying
Re:
Quote from Surly:
"At this point you can install all the parts if you so choose, but we recommend also protecting the inside of the tubes.
Apply Rust Inhibitor To The Insides Of The Tubes
The outside of your frame is covered with a tough coat of paint. Even when you get dings in the paint, rust never gets too far because the surface has a chance to dry, so you don’t really even need to touch up scratches (of course, if you leave it outside under a tarp, it’s going to rust more than if you get it out and ride it). The inside of the frame tubes, however, are a rust breeding environment. Water gets inside your frame. It does. It can seep into the smallest places, like down your seat tube as water sprays up from your wheel.
See the little holes the inside of your chainstays? They’re there to allow gasses to release when the frame is being welded, but they also serve to allow some airflow in the tubing. That’s great, but it isn’t enough. It’s a really good idea to coat the insides of the tubes with some kind of protectant. This is best done, obviously, when the frame is still naked, without any components installed. After the initial frame prep, get yourself some JP Weigle Frame Saver or motor fogging oil or boiled linseed oil. Any of these are a kind of sticky oil that coat the insides of the tubes and prevent rust from starting. Frame Saver is a bit toxic, as it comes in an aerosol can, but it has a spray nozzle that lets you easily get into the nooks and crannies on your frame and comes with complete instructions. One can should let you do 3 or 4 frames on average. But whatever you use, go one tube at a time. Spray some in according to the instructions (or a little more than you think you need) and roll the frame around so it coats the entire inside surface. Make sure you remember every tube , including the head tube and fork legs. Let it air out and gel up for a day or so, then clean up any extra on the outside of the frame. Add a light coat of grease to the BB threads, the ends and inside of the head tube, and the seat tube, then install your parts and go ride."
Quote from Surly:
"At this point you can install all the parts if you so choose, but we recommend also protecting the inside of the tubes.
Apply Rust Inhibitor To The Insides Of The Tubes
The outside of your frame is covered with a tough coat of paint. Even when you get dings in the paint, rust never gets too far because the surface has a chance to dry, so you don’t really even need to touch up scratches (of course, if you leave it outside under a tarp, it’s going to rust more than if you get it out and ride it). The inside of the frame tubes, however, are a rust breeding environment. Water gets inside your frame. It does. It can seep into the smallest places, like down your seat tube as water sprays up from your wheel.
See the little holes the inside of your chainstays? They’re there to allow gasses to release when the frame is being welded, but they also serve to allow some airflow in the tubing. That’s great, but it isn’t enough. It’s a really good idea to coat the insides of the tubes with some kind of protectant. This is best done, obviously, when the frame is still naked, without any components installed. After the initial frame prep, get yourself some JP Weigle Frame Saver or motor fogging oil or boiled linseed oil. Any of these are a kind of sticky oil that coat the insides of the tubes and prevent rust from starting. Frame Saver is a bit toxic, as it comes in an aerosol can, but it has a spray nozzle that lets you easily get into the nooks and crannies on your frame and comes with complete instructions. One can should let you do 3 or 4 frames on average. But whatever you use, go one tube at a time. Spray some in according to the instructions (or a little more than you think you need) and roll the frame around so it coats the entire inside surface. Make sure you remember every tube , including the head tube and fork legs. Let it air out and gel up for a day or so, then clean up any extra on the outside of the frame. Add a light coat of grease to the BB threads, the ends and inside of the head tube, and the seat tube, then install your parts and go ride."
velomaniac
MacRetro Rider
How long does a bike frame take to rust from the inside out to the point its unsafe ?
How many holes in the frame are there to let the water in ?
How often do you imerse the entire frame in salt water ?
The point I'm making is that all this corrosion prevention seems a bit much for something that may well outlast your use of it. This is retrobike, many of our steeds are old and steel and are highly unlikely to have been treated for internal rust in their lives. Most bikes I ride are btween twenty and fifty years old and I dont think I'm risking my neck every time I ride them. WD40 or some old gearbox oil if you must but otherwise why bother ?
How many holes in the frame are there to let the water in ?
How often do you imerse the entire frame in salt water ?
The point I'm making is that all this corrosion prevention seems a bit much for something that may well outlast your use of it. This is retrobike, many of our steeds are old and steel and are highly unlikely to have been treated for internal rust in their lives. Most bikes I ride are btween twenty and fifty years old and I dont think I'm risking my neck every time I ride them. WD40 or some old gearbox oil if you must but otherwise why bother ?
Ahhh! That rings a bell Rob.
I did actually do my Trucker when new back before I built it now I think about it. I didn't do my 1X1 I'm sure but I did do the Pugsley. I did use the aerosol waxoil from the car shop as that's what most people use and its the easiest to get hold of.
I didn't stress about it, it was a new frame on my Trucker and 1X1 and is fit for purpose as is.
As Velo says its treated the same as every other steel frame built and I am sure 99.9% of people don't do anything and it doesn't make too much difference in a normal lifespan.
My Pugsley it will help slightly I hope as its been in the surf quite a few times, but hey, use, clean, rinse and put away for next time.
Jamie
I did actually do my Trucker when new back before I built it now I think about it. I didn't do my 1X1 I'm sure but I did do the Pugsley. I did use the aerosol waxoil from the car shop as that's what most people use and its the easiest to get hold of.
I didn't stress about it, it was a new frame on my Trucker and 1X1 and is fit for purpose as is.
As Velo says its treated the same as every other steel frame built and I am sure 99.9% of people don't do anything and it doesn't make too much difference in a normal lifespan.
My Pugsley it will help slightly I hope as its been in the surf quite a few times, but hey, use, clean, rinse and put away for next time.
Jamie
Re:
Agree with Velo entirely, even modern steel is that bit better than the old stuff.......in saying that I still use the waxoyl. I think it's more about feeling like your looking after your nice new bike,probably not needed but you do it anyway.
Whereas helitaping everything is important
Agree with Velo entirely, even modern steel is that bit better than the old stuff.......in saying that I still use the waxoyl. I think it's more about feeling like your looking after your nice new bike,probably not needed but you do it anyway.
Whereas helitaping everything is important
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