Kona Kapu 1994 - pastures new
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Re: Kona Kapu 1994 - epic unicorn
So I cleaned up the frame and forks this weekend. The colour is more of a blood red than the paprika red that the earlier, slightly oily shots showed which is cool. As you can see there's a fair amount of patina. Nothing that can't be resolved with some careful touching up (oooo er).
Sadly my local model shop has gone bust so I popped into Warhammer. Jesus Christ, it's not changed since I was a teen when I had a brief flirtation with painting orcs and things before realising that it was sad, sad geeky, not sad, cool geeky like Tamiya models. That said the staff were helpful and the paints are as hard-wearing as before. I have a two reds, a grey some white, black and clear lacquer.
A base coat of grey was applied to the various bits and pieces, then the darker red. That's already made a big difference. I just need to apply the lighter red before a coat of lacquer. Of course they will never match exactly but, as mentioned, it'll look a lot better.
Another top tip. To remove the edges of flaking decals, borrow your other half's cuticle scissors! Super sharp tiny blades with a a curved edge, mean they are great for trimming without damaging the frame or paint.
Decal damage.
Worst bit of the patina.
Check out the fluted seat-tube
Base coat applied.
Let the painting continue!
So I cleaned up the frame and forks this weekend. The colour is more of a blood red than the paprika red that the earlier, slightly oily shots showed which is cool. As you can see there's a fair amount of patina. Nothing that can't be resolved with some careful touching up (oooo er).
Sadly my local model shop has gone bust so I popped into Warhammer. Jesus Christ, it's not changed since I was a teen when I had a brief flirtation with painting orcs and things before realising that it was sad, sad geeky, not sad, cool geeky like Tamiya models. That said the staff were helpful and the paints are as hard-wearing as before. I have a two reds, a grey some white, black and clear lacquer.
A base coat of grey was applied to the various bits and pieces, then the darker red. That's already made a big difference. I just need to apply the lighter red before a coat of lacquer. Of course they will never match exactly but, as mentioned, it'll look a lot better.
Another top tip. To remove the edges of flaking decals, borrow your other half's cuticle scissors! Super sharp tiny blades with a a curved edge, mean they are great for trimming without damaging the frame or paint.
Decal damage.
Worst bit of the patina.
Check out the fluted seat-tube
Base coat applied.
Let the painting continue!
sausagefingers
Senior Retro Guru
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Re: Kona Kapu 1994 - epic unicorn
Is that a Haole I see for sale in the road bike section ?? :shock:
Is that a Haole I see for sale in the road bike section ?? :shock:
parfumisme
Old School Hero
Re: Kona Kapu 1994 - epic unicorn
I'll be checking in on this one! I'm a Kona dealer in Belgium and I'm trying to catch up a little bit on the living history. A customer/good friend of mine has a (more recent) haole which unfortunately cracked and is awaiting replacement under lifetime warranty.
keep up the good work!
I'll be checking in on this one! I'm a Kona dealer in Belgium and I'm trying to catch up a little bit on the living history. A customer/good friend of mine has a (more recent) haole which unfortunately cracked and is awaiting replacement under lifetime warranty.
keep up the good work!
Re: Kona Kapu 1994 - epic unicorn
by the way... The decals are silverish-grayish colour. Would you mind a polished cockpit-seatpost paired with gray cable casings and anthracite walled tyres? : )
Then it'd be a complete "red-silver" setup, especially if you find matching HB tape as well.
I must admit I've found the frame amazing. A low horizontal tube with the overhanging seat tube just looks great, gives you the opportunity to construct a lighter-stiffer frame, and get the front end lower.
Looking forward to the build and correcting those chips in the paint (I have the same problem )
by the way... The decals are silverish-grayish colour. Would you mind a polished cockpit-seatpost paired with gray cable casings and anthracite walled tyres? : )
Then it'd be a complete "red-silver" setup, especially if you find matching HB tape as well.
I must admit I've found the frame amazing. A low horizontal tube with the overhanging seat tube just looks great, gives you the opportunity to construct a lighter-stiffer frame, and get the front end lower.
Looking forward to the build and correcting those chips in the paint (I have the same problem
)
Re: Kona Kapu 1994 - epic unicorn
A fair bit of progress over Christmas and the new year. Lots of painting and polishing. The touch up's are good on the red frame and so-so on the grey decals (fine on the black). From a distance you'd never know, it's up close under eye and the camera that you begin to notice but it's still a hell of a lot better than it was before (and match much better than new decals).
I managed to sort out the shifting issues, it was pure filth as usual and after a good clean and lube they are fine. Still clunky but that's the design and function by the looks of it, not the condition. New down tube cable adjusters were needed as they are rusted solid into the housing. New brake pads and shoes were purchased too. Couldn't resist Campy to keep the theme going.
The biggest remaining challenge is reconstructing the free-wheel and axle assembly. To say it's fiddly would be an understatement and not helped by a ever so slightly worn set of adjusting bolts. Ideally a new axle set would be great but where you find one of those that will fit the freewheel is beyond me so I'll give it a good go before looking at alternatives.
A fair bit of progress over Christmas and the new year. Lots of painting and polishing. The touch up's are good on the red frame and so-so on the grey decals (fine on the black). From a distance you'd never know, it's up close under eye and the camera that you begin to notice but it's still a hell of a lot better than it was before (and match much better than new decals).
I managed to sort out the shifting issues, it was pure filth as usual and after a good clean and lube they are fine. Still clunky but that's the design and function by the looks of it, not the condition. New down tube cable adjusters were needed as they are rusted solid into the housing. New brake pads and shoes were purchased too. Couldn't resist Campy to keep the theme going.
The biggest remaining challenge is reconstructing the free-wheel and axle assembly. To say it's fiddly would be an understatement and not helped by a ever so slightly worn set of adjusting bolts. Ideally a new axle set would be great but where you find one of those that will fit the freewheel is beyond me so I'll give it a good go before looking at alternatives.
Re: Kona Kapu 1994 - epic unicorn (update P3)
We're getting there. New brake shoes, pads and NOS Campy downtube barrel adjusters all on and a very nice, good quality Columbus Genius decal. Whilst it may not have worn one back then, it is that tubing and I think it deserves to tell the world that! Apologies for the poor picture quality. Just the wheels to rebuild before cabling up with the bar-tape.
We're getting there. New brake shoes, pads and NOS Campy downtube barrel adjusters all on and a very nice, good quality Columbus Genius decal. Whilst it may not have worn one back then, it is that tubing and I think it deserves to tell the world that! Apologies for the poor picture quality. Just the wheels to rebuild before cabling up with the bar-tape.
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Re: Kona Kapu 1994 - epic unicorn (update P3)
You've made good progress, great to see it coming together.
You've made good progress, great to see it coming together.
Re: Kona Kapu 1994 - epic unicorn (update P3)
Thank you!
Well, as expected I had to walk away from the rear wheel assembly before I chucked everything out of the window. The front was a doddle and is super-duper smooth. It polished up really well, especially since a few of the nipples had oxidised a bit. I know opinion on the red walled Pro4's is a bit like marmite. For now I'll stick with them and change them when the times comes for a new set. The red wall matches the frame really well. It's my bike and I think it deserves a bit of showing off :mrgreen:
Anyway, back to the rear wheel. Answers on a postcard how the Italians put the cassette assembly together. You have three small springs that rest within the cassette housing, with three small metal pieces that when compressed "rest" against the ridged inner ring of the rear hub. In other words, the bit that makes the lovely clicking noise and stops the cassette from slipping back. Sounds easy to put together. No, no it's not. Rightly, the springs have to be compressed, so trying to hold the three bits together and get them into the hub is impossible (for me). I tried all sorts of things to try and get it in, elastic bands to hold it, then cut the band half way in...they all failed. I'm probably missing something really obvious
It'll go off to the LBS this weekend to see if they have any joy. If anyone has any tips in the meantime I'd really appreciate it!!
EarlofBarnet":2txaw23a said:
Thank you!
Well, as expected I had to walk away from the rear wheel assembly before I chucked everything out of the window. The front was a doddle and is super-duper smooth. It polished up really well, especially since a few of the nipples had oxidised a bit. I know opinion on the red walled Pro4's is a bit like marmite. For now I'll stick with them and change them when the times comes for a new set. The red wall matches the frame really well. It's my bike and I think it deserves a bit of showing off :mrgreen:
Anyway, back to the rear wheel. Answers on a postcard how the Italians put the cassette assembly together. You have three small springs that rest within the cassette housing, with three small metal pieces that when compressed "rest" against the ridged inner ring of the rear hub. In other words, the bit that makes the lovely clicking noise and stops the cassette from slipping back. Sounds easy to put together. No, no it's not. Rightly, the springs have to be compressed, so trying to hold the three bits together and get them into the hub is impossible (for me). I tried all sorts of things to try and get it in, elastic bands to hold it, then cut the band half way in...they all failed. I'm probably missing something really obvious
It'll go off to the LBS this weekend to see if they have any joy. If anyone has any tips in the meantime I'd really appreciate it!!
