Depends on whether the distortion is due to irregular spoke tension, damage or a worn rim. A characteristic of worn rims is a wavy brake surface / brake judder - brake track failure on a rim can be very serious so eliminate this first. If there's damage due to impact, it can be very difficult to bend back without breaking.
the wheels are new to me, and i think its a damaged area on the rim, the judder is really bad and i don't think it's good for the bike at all.Shame as the record hub is fine.mighjt try and bend it or maybe better looking for a new one.Would be great on a fixie with no brakes
How's your headset? Even if it all seems nicely adjusted, check the bearing surfaces for pitting (brinelling), which may make itself felt in the form of fork judder.
Also check your brake pivots for play. It's unlikely but it CAN be a factor, even if it's not juddering with another wheel. I had this a few times when I was in QC for Easton wheels.
If the rims aren't obviously worn or damaged, then it's highly likely to be your brake that is the problem.
Might just be glazed pads. Try roughing them up with coarse sandpaper. Then "toeing them in". This just means swivelling them so the frontmost edge touches first under breaking. From above they might look a bit like this: /\ (exaggerated).
Try it anyway. If the rim has a ding between spokes then it's knackered. If it's a smooth buckle it might be trueable. Take it to a decent bike shop with a decent wheelbuilder to find out for sure.
well you were all right , a bit loose brakes and a loose headset, i transferred the wheel to another bike, and it was much less evident.There is definately a ding but i might try adjusting the toe in before i resort to the wood and hammer