Is my "new" headset actually broken?

TDIfurby

Retro Guru
Got this off a member on here, but I think it could be knackered. Now I had front brakes working, I was able to put pressure on the forks, etc and noted a wobble. Got some (rubbish LOL) video of it. Basically with the brakes on I can wobble the bike forward and back about a centimetre, which I can imagine would not be good when riding.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1xtWVGRZks

I can actually see movement in the bearings/casings when it wobbles. Have I just pi55ed £10 up the wall?! :(
 
do you have a
fork11.jpg


As you need a gap so you can preload the bearings, which should remove the play

assuming it's assembled correctly ;)

If you don't have that gap add another spacer under the stem

more info here: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... et-service
 
There was quite a decent gap there, and I pushed the stem assembly well down so everything was pushed together. I had to use a good amount of spacers though. You can see them in black in the video. I will try and verify where the movement is cocurring but to me it seems equal movement/wear at both the top and bottom....

I wouldn't mind a second opinion on this. Anyone near Exmouth able to help me?
 
Have you purchased the Pace Race collar I mentioned in your other thread? The shim that is required on Pace steerers to build the diameter up so that the crown race of the headset can have a tight sliding fit.

If you have not bought one, or have not rescued an old one if there was previously a headset fitted, then you will get this sort of movement.

I'll say again, I don't believe there is anything wrong with your headset.
 
Rod_Saetan":3daoonv4 said:
Have you tightened it up properly?

this ^^^ I usually put the front brake on and push forward then tighten things up, if it's too tight it's easy enough to back it off a little.

it is the right size headset? and it's all pressed in ok?
 
The cups are definitely snugly on. I didn't get the pace race collar, but the bottom end once I'd removed the last part of the FSA set, fitted snugly, so I didn't think there was a problem, or a part needed.

Movement is occurring at top and bottom though. I can see movement in both cups.
 
I'm not quite following, I assume you have not used this headset with these forks before?

If you have then it may be that the race collar is stuck in the crown race of the headset. However because you are having problems and are claiming to not of used a race collar then...


YOU NEED A RACE COLLAR


Headset crown races are made to fit the little oversized bulge found at the base of steerers on most manufacturers forks. Pace work a little differently. They used shims to create the slightly oversized area onto which the grown race has an interference fit.

The Pro's are the steerer is easier to replace the cons are the race collar often gets lost when changing headsets.

If you do not have a race collar the crown race is not fitted correctly and will have a slight bit of movement. Any slackness at the bottom can look like slack at the top of the headset as the compression ring can work loose through the leverage action of the fork.
 
JeRkY":uyqgupyn said:
I'm not quite following, I assume you have not used this headset with these forks before?

If you have then it may be that the race collar is stuck in the crown race of the headset. However because you are having problems and are claiming to not of used a race collar then...


YOU NEED A RACE COLLAR


Headset crown races are made to fit the little oversized bulge found at the base of steerers on most manufacturers forks. Pace work a little differently. They used shims to create the slightly oversized area onto which the grown race has an interference fit.

The Pro's are the steerer is easier to replace the cons are the race collar often gets lost when changing headsets.

If you do not have a race collar the crown race is not fitted correctly and will have a slight bit of movement. Any slackness at the bottom can look like slack at the top of the headset as the compression ring can work loose through the leverage action of the fork.
I'd agree. Pace forks ave straight steerers, so no taper for the crown race to be squeezed on to. Sounds like you need the aforementioned shim.
 
Have sent an email to "Pace Cycles" who came up on google as dealing in this thing and hoping they can help me. Going to be demoralising taking apart the headset again..... Although in theory I can just take out the fork, fit the collar, then reinsert it. We shall see.
 
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