Is a road bike really worth it?

jaypee

Senior Retro Guru
I love riding and tinkering with bikes but I've always had this idea that to be a proper cyclist you need a road bike (MTB for off-road obviously).

I don't have much money available for cycling, and you can find quality bargain retro MTBs easily - much more so than with road bikes - so I've always justified it that way, whilst keeping an eye out on the off chance of a bargain road bike.

A few have come up recently and I now have one that fits me
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=317916

But... I don't know if I like it. And I think it's the road specific features rather than the bike itself.

I'm rarely overtaken on the road and often overtake/race roadies. I can easily do 60 miles plus with little discomfort. Bar-ends help for options and if my hands get tired I'll often just go no handed for a bit.

My MTBs have a high seatpost so while not quite as aerodynamic as a road bike they're not far off. I imagine there's a slightly lower top speed due to gearing and wheel size though that can be adjusted with gearing. And I'm not racing.

I find the road bike awkward. Less nippy from standing (the larger wheels maybe?) And I find the drops less sure and steady. I'm sure that will improve with time but I just feel the MTBs are more fun with little disadvantage.

Plenty of you guys rack up many more miles than me so I'm wondering if there are people out there who cover a lot of road miles and still prefer an MTB? If so why? If not why not? If I persevere with the road bike will I start to see the advantages?

I'm posting this here rather than the road section because I know the response I'll get there! But seriously I'm wondering how many serious road cyclists out there prefer a lightweight rigid MTB on
 
Think you've answered your own question.
I've got over a dozen bikes... none of em roadbikes.
 
Difficult one. I have a fast road bike (1994 Litespeed with 23 tyres) which is lush to ride and allows 100 miles with no discomfort. However my tourer is a converted Marin Palisades with drop bars and 1.3" tyres. 70 miles with a camping load again is no trouble. However I toured extensively on it simply with bar ends, rack and 1.3" slicks, including down the Pacific coast of the USA.

Buy the bike for the kind of riding you intend. Drop bars do work, but definitely take some getting used to. MTBs handle like trucks compared to road bikes - the steering stability is necessary for off road and works well for touring loads.

If you are planning all-day rides then a more road-orientated bike will make things easier. But decide what riding you want to do first.
 
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Like the frames!

I love riding and bike tinkering myself but I don't think you have to be a Rapha or Sky clad roadie and spend a fortune on kit to be a proper cyclist. Cycling can be whatever you want it to be. It spans many disciplines and styles of riding.

I personally can't justify the cost of today's bike prices so I keep my 'vintage ride' going with careful regular maintenance and carefully sourced kit found at the best the value for money (like 8speed Shimano cassettes from CRC for under £10 say). I keep the the vintage components from 'the day' in safe storage and hang modern bits for everyday usage on the frame, replacing or updating these as needed.

I've ridden road bikes in the past but when I got into MTB riding I found I much preferred the riding position and the way MTBs handled and the amount of fun you can have on them. I found road bikes to be awkward/unforgiving/easily spooked like a highly strung skittish race horse. A good steel MTB frame is pretty much bomb proof and can put up with most conditions and you can change the kit around on it to suit different riding scenarios. I've always liked having the option of being able to venture off tarmac at a moment's notice.

Most of my riding now is by commuting. I do about 33 miles a day and normally ride 4 days out of 5 throughout the seasons (unless I'm knackered or can't face riding or the weather). The bike's fully rigid so I run the fattest tyres the frame can take (2.2 X-Kings for winter and trail or Race Kings for summer and mostly road). I've fitted riser bars with old fashioned bar ends, which allows different positions and the risers provide a degree of flex and comfort in the absence of front suspension. Braking comes from Avid V-brakes. Drive train combines XT M772 rear mech and 8speed (34-11) with a single 50 tooth ring. With this set up, I'm up there giving team Rapha or Sky a run for their money! ;)

All my mileage for commuting, shopping, allotment, trails, etc, is made on the same bike. If I did go for another bike, I'd probably opt for a cyclocross rather than a roadie. May be a cyclocross is the happy medium?
 
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:oops: I have been mainly riding road for the last 18 months - it is retro though - 1994 Trek.
 
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All good advice above. Don't discount a hybrid either - they sometimes get negative comments because they are neither road nor MTB......but they are good for putting relative fast and long distance miles with a MTB position and have a sensible durable mix of parts.
 
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I bought a 90's vintage steel road bike for training about 3 years ago and love it. Bought a second older one as a winter bike/L'Eroica bike. I hardly ride my mountain bikes any more because its so much easier walking out the front door and riding the roadie.

I'd say 95% of my riding are split between my commuter - which is a monster cross style built up modern CX rig - and my road bike. I only take the mountain bike out riding with the kids on trails or I have an old fully rigid that is my snow bike/back up commuter.

Still each to their own. If it doesn't work for you don't waste the $.
 
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