How to run full length cable outers without guides?

[FluffyChicken]

Re:

But post a picture of the bike and route and missing bits of guide.

 

[TheAntsPants]

The only thing that beats gaffer tape for sheer functionality is a piece of wire, imho. But I'm hoping to turn this in to a bling ride for about town.

I want to run full outer along the top tube to the brakes and rear derailleur. Hard to see in the picture, but there is only cable guide for one interrupted cable on the top tube.

Don't mind the headset remover sticking out the head tube. Down Under, we do things upside down .

 

[Bullpup]

Does it have the bolt on cable guide under the bottom bracket? In fact has someone removed all the stops to turn it into a Single Speed?

 

[Minifreak]

Definitely a downtube mounted rear mech(should have a plastic guide on the BB, possibly missing?) and top tube mounted front mech with V brake type rear stop. Why do you want or need full outers?

 

[al-onestare]

Definitely a downtube mounted rear mech(should have a plastic guide on the BB, possibly missing?) and top tube mounted front mech with V brake type rear stop. Why do you want or need full outers?

Exactly this. You don't need an outer there.

 

[TheAntsPants]

Exactly this. You don't need an outer there.

You're right. I don't need outers. All parts correct and accounted for. It's just personal preference. It allows me to run a straighter route and I think less maintenance.

I will admit it won't look as neat or "proper" (although later Konas went with the top tube route), no matter what attachment method I use. Anyway, I'll post up the results in a build thread one day...

https://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html#routing

The Four Commandments of Cable Routing:

1. The handlebars must be able to turn as far as they can in both directions without being limited by a cable pulling taut. Instead, the turning limit must be set by the handlebar bumping into the top tube or by the brake arm or reflector bracket bumping into the down tube.
2. No wrong direction bends (For example: as the rear brake cable leaves the top tube and makes the bend down toward the caliper, it should make a smooth transition from parallel to the top tube to parallel to the seat stays. If the cable bends up from the top tube before bending down toward the seat stays, it is probably too long. If the cable curves out past the caliper, then bends back at an angle more vertical than the seat stays, it is certainly too long.
3. The bends that cannot be avoided should be made as wide (gradual) as possible,
4. Cable housings should be as short as they can be without violating the above rules. If a housing is attached to a part that moves, test it at the extreme positions it will take when in use. Apply a brake; shift a derailer to the positions where the cable is tightest and where it bends the housing the furthest in each direction.

 

[Woz]

Drill the top-tube and have them internally routed.

 

[TheAntsPants]

Retrobike sacrilege! And I thought I was naughty...

But I am contemplating a custom solution

 

[al-onestare]

Drill the top-tube and have them internally routed.

lol

Great call. Make sure to dremmel off the cable stops to improve aerodynamics

 

[TheAntsPants]

Great call. Make sure to dremmel off the cable stops to improve aerodynamics

You mean like this? Been there. Done that. :shock:

Don't worry. There was a reason to the madness. It kept catching and tearing my shorts when I was out of the saddle. This frame's a keeper, so I'm not worried about resale value.