How to avoid a crank arm failing

[Who knees my needs anyway]

Cheers for that!
Might have to sell one of the kids to pay for it however... Seriously though, the money might be worth it just to know I'm in safe hands.

 

[ishaw]

Re:

I read the article too, ki d of worrying. I've never had an issue myself, but will now be using a torque wrench to fit pedals I think.

A thought though. Many cranks come​ with pedal washers that are 'optional' to use. Would fitting one help prevent the stresses/cracks mentioned in the article?

 

[Who knees my needs anyway]

Interesting thought - as long as the washer didn't impede too much purchase for the pedal..

 

[WandsworthRouleur]

Interesting thought - as long as the washer didn't impede too much purchase for the pedal..

I use pedal washers on old cranks -- every little helps!

TBH, you can't go wrong with some old cold forged Shimano cranks.

I'm running some Middleburn cranks on my Pace that are machined out of billet aluminium. You can see the grain and it's easy to see why they fail. The newer (relative!) Middleburns were machine from forged alu and are much much stronger.

 

[slingsby_pobble]

Re:

Interesting. I'm surprised Shimano/Truvativ etc has not adopted the taper face approach to pedal/crank interface, as it is another 'upsell' opportunity and yet another new format for cyclists to pay for. I could see Crank Bros doing a crank/pedal combo for £££ using this philosophy.

Up to now I have tightened my pedals to crank arms with the lightest of torques - just beyond finger tight - to prevent battles with removing pedals at a later date. I'm now tempted to use my torque wrench BUT this isn't always possible eg where there is no allen hex in the back of the pedal axle. Not impossible with a crows foot torque wrench adaptor (although I haven't got a 15mm one of these).

Incidentally I always use copper grease/anti-sieze compound wherever aluminium meets steel as instinct/experience teaches me this is where you get problems after time.

 

[elite504]

Bartsince1975 and WandsworthRouleur speak good advice. Higher end forged cranks (opposed to cheap cast or bling machined) will be the strongest, but not the cheapest. M7** Shimano XT are well trusted by many.

 

[Who knees my needs anyway]

Thanks for all the advice everyone - looks like XT it is then...