hope titanium hubs
- Thread starter Spibblo
- Start date
- Feedback
- View
Hi Viv,
Try these:
http://www.hopetech.com/wp-content/uplo ... ploded.pdf
http://www.hopetech.com/wp-content/uplo ... earHub.pdf
I think the front ones are just pushed on (they have an o-ring inside) and the rear ones do up with an allen key but I haven't looked for a while.
Try these:
http://www.hopetech.com/wp-content/uplo ... ploded.pdf
http://www.hopetech.com/wp-content/uplo ... earHub.pdf
I think the front ones are just pushed on (they have an o-ring inside) and the rear ones do up with an allen key but I haven't looked for a while.
Hi
Thanx for the response, Firstly no It didn't actually lock up while riding it, I just felt it stiffening, so I dropped the wheel out to check and there's no hope of turning it by hand or rubber grip pliers. There's a fraction of movement either way before the dead stop though and I am talking a knats gonad of movement. All seems very strange and suspicious to me actually, from a little loose and a bit of indexing to stuck in maybe 400 yrds ride.
Lost faith in what I'm told is a very good shop, even if a little pricey, great to have read some realistic prices for the bearings to, I nearly went and paid £12 ........ each
Thanx for the exploded view links, already looked but couldn't really tell, guess tis time for wife's carving knife to try wedge down the back then hahaha
Many thanx for the info
Viv
Thanx for the response, Firstly no It didn't actually lock up while riding it, I just felt it stiffening, so I dropped the wheel out to check and there's no hope of turning it by hand or rubber grip pliers. There's a fraction of movement either way before the dead stop though and I am talking a knats gonad of movement. All seems very strange and suspicious to me actually, from a little loose and a bit of indexing to stuck in maybe 400 yrds ride.
Lost faith in what I'm told is a very good shop, even if a little pricey, great to have read some realistic prices for the bearings to, I nearly went and paid £12 ........ each
Thanx for the exploded view links, already looked but couldn't really tell, guess tis time for wife's carving knife to try wedge down the back then hahaha
Many thanx for the info
Viv
Re:
Wheels, like electrickery, gas and mains water are the four things in life I do not touch myself. Whilst I own a spoke key, it has never seen use. I do have a several sets of cone spanners. Probably to make my tool box look pukka.
I was looking at putting new bearings in my Hope hubs, but when factoring the cost of bearings and the specific tools it was actually the same price to send them back to Hope who serviced them and sent them back out in under 24 hours. So cack handed wheelsmiths like myself should not fear Hope hubs.
Wheels, like electrickery, gas and mains water are the four things in life I do not touch myself. Whilst I own a spoke key, it has never seen use. I do have a several sets of cone spanners. Probably to make my tool box look pukka.
I was looking at putting new bearings in my Hope hubs, but when factoring the cost of bearings and the specific tools it was actually the same price to send them back to Hope who serviced them and sent them back out in under 24 hours. So cack handed wheelsmiths like myself should not fear Hope hubs.
Radar, just out of curiosity, What did Hope charge? if you don't mind me asking. My LBS quoted £15 per 30 mins with a minimum charge of 1 hour plus parts which as I already said £12 per bearing. £54 dang cack handed or not and with or without my suspicions on my budget, it's definitely a job for the shed. Then I got my BB to figure out Anyone know right sizes for MF Alu pro 89-90 model off top of their head?
Anyone know right sizes for MF Alu pro 89-90 model off top of their head?
- Feedback
- View
Re:
Front wheels are dead easy to do. Have a go. If it locked up chanves are the cage in the bearing packed up and lodge itself between the bearing.
To get the caps of. Hit the axle with a mallet. Then that'll loosen the cap. It's obvious if there is a grub screw you need to undo.. My early front hub has one.
Cap off and keep hitting and the bearing will go to. Then hit he other bearing from inside.
Put one new bearing in and use something flat to hit both inner and outer races. I find the front axles do not have a tight fit and you maybe able to slide the axle back in or gentle taps. The second bearing is the harder and you need something to support the inner and outer races, socket sets can come in usefull for this or drill a hole in some wood. Then tap the bearing in and put the caps back on. Job done. Light grease the bearings on the outside before fitting.
Front wheels are dead easy to do. Have a go. If it locked up chanves are the cage in the bearing packed up and lodge itself between the bearing.
To get the caps of. Hit the axle with a mallet. Then that'll loosen the cap. It's obvious if there is a grub screw you need to undo.. My early front hub has one.
Cap off and keep hitting and the bearing will go to. Then hit he other bearing from inside.
Put one new bearing in and use something flat to hit both inner and outer races. I find the front axles do not have a tight fit and you maybe able to slide the axle back in or gentle taps. The second bearing is the harder and you need something to support the inner and outer races, socket sets can come in usefull for this or drill a hole in some wood. Then tap the bearing in and put the caps back on. Job done. Light grease the bearings on the outside before fitting.
To dismantle you need something the support the hub but with a hole through the center to allow the axle to slide out when you bash the other end
First look for grub screws in the side of the end spacers-None ? Then place the hub one side down(front doesnt matter which side)
Taking a steel hammer and a little piece of wood to soften the blow with(although u can just use a steel hammer as long as you dont hit it too hart that it caused the end to deform)
Hitting the axle at one end with drive the opposite bearing and spacer out the hub in one go.The spacer on the side you hit will fall off or you can get a finger under it to pry is off the last millimeter.
I thin use another hole that the axle can slide through but not the axle or spacer to remove those. Place in hole and hit the other end till the bearing pushes off the spacer
Its all pretty self explanatory once you see the axle out
To get the last bearing out of the hub take the now bare axle and hammer it through the hub. The axle center will come up against the center of the bearing and drift it out.
Go and buy Hope bearings. Dont buy cheap copies although theyre fine i fine Hopes fit best and have the longevity
Fitting -
Take shell and place one of the bearings into the seat for it. You'll find about the first 1/2mm will go it and thats enough to hold it in place till you find the hammer that has somehow found its way into the toilet :?
Take hammer and TAP it is moving around the hub in a triangular pattern- A little TAP here, then there then there then back to here again till the bearing is 95% seated
Slide in the axle(DONT FORGET THIS)
Place the 2nd bearing on top and start to drift that side in too bracing the hub on the worktop. The other bearing will start to come out but be stopped by the worktop
To get them both fully in you need something to use as a drift like a flat screwdriver. and something that fits the diameter of the bearing but is smaller that the hub opening so it can slide the 1 mm in. A socket is good for this.
Just TAP and turn over. Once both are fully in put the spacers back on.The nature of the axle is it centers itself.
Reply when the front is done and we'll move onto the rear
ALSO
Unless you know the mechanic well ,dont allow a bike shoppe to actually work on your bike as ive never met such a cack handed brigade. Many of the mechanics only have experience of ultra modern and most times theyre sending it off to be sorted.
Any fool can do a jigsaw and thats all a bike build mostly is. Fixing complex forks and shocks 99% wont do themselves.
PS
What hubs are these specifically ? (too lazy to go back and look) Disc/non disc?
First look for grub screws in the side of the end spacers-None ? Then place the hub one side down(front doesnt matter which side)
Taking a steel hammer and a little piece of wood to soften the blow with(although u can just use a steel hammer as long as you dont hit it too hart that it caused the end to deform)
Hitting the axle at one end with drive the opposite bearing and spacer out the hub in one go.The spacer on the side you hit will fall off or you can get a finger under it to pry is off the last millimeter.
I thin use another hole that the axle can slide through but not the axle or spacer to remove those. Place in hole and hit the other end till the bearing pushes off the spacer
Its all pretty self explanatory once you see the axle out
To get the last bearing out of the hub take the now bare axle and hammer it through the hub. The axle center will come up against the center of the bearing and drift it out.
Go and buy Hope bearings. Dont buy cheap copies although theyre fine i fine Hopes fit best and have the longevity
Fitting -
Take shell and place one of the bearings into the seat for it. You'll find about the first 1/2mm will go it and thats enough to hold it in place till you find the hammer that has somehow found its way into the toilet :?
Take hammer and TAP it is moving around the hub in a triangular pattern- A little TAP here, then there then there then back to here again till the bearing is 95% seated
Slide in the axle(DONT FORGET THIS)
Place the 2nd bearing on top and start to drift that side in too bracing the hub on the worktop. The other bearing will start to come out but be stopped by the worktop
To get them both fully in you need something to use as a drift like a flat screwdriver. and something that fits the diameter of the bearing but is smaller that the hub opening so it can slide the 1 mm in. A socket is good for this.
Just TAP and turn over. Once both are fully in put the spacers back on.The nature of the axle is it centers itself.
Reply when the front is done and we'll move onto the rear
ALSO
Unless you know the mechanic well ,dont allow a bike shoppe to actually work on your bike as ive never met such a cack handed brigade. Many of the mechanics only have experience of ultra modern and most times theyre sending it off to be sorted.
Any fool can do a jigsaw and thats all a bike build mostly is. Fixing complex forks and shocks 99% wont do themselves.
PS
What hubs are these specifically ? (too lazy to go back and look) Disc/non disc?
@ dyna-t
Mine are earl hope ti's bought around 1990 non disc, can't say how impressed I am, 20 ish years on 1 set of bearings. Okay last 16 years I've been to fat and lazy to really abuse them but first 5-7 years they got absolutely hammered mostly around Derbyshire Dales.
Mine are earl hope ti's bought around 1990 non disc, can't say how impressed I am, 20 ish years on 1 set of bearings. Okay last 16 years I've been to fat and lazy to really abuse them but first 5-7 years they got absolutely hammered mostly around Derbyshire Dales.
