hope titanium hubs

Ha ha Radar, who is cack handed when we own 20+ year old bikes, too old and lazy maybe, I just never looked at my hubs until now and they needed it and wasn't sure on removing the cap retaining things, I actually have the original packaging with exploded view sheet etc, but it's in one of those safe places. On the upside while searching for that I found the brand new xt deraileur set circa 1990 with box etc and a tub full of titanium bolts etc :)
 
The method described is for a suspension amongst overs which is probably the hub you have unless its a fatso front(and without a pic..........) Fatsos is a whole nuther kettle of fish :shock: Tricky job that yin :?

The rear you start at the freehub end. A pair of flat blade screwdrivers one each side and braced against the freehub body use to lever off the end cap spacer which always scratches it( I use to flat bits of hardwood which is a bit gentler. )
You then pull free the freehub.
You then search all round the place for the 3 springs that the pawls were fitted with and have now simultaneously flown off is 3 different directions .
Next time youll remember to loosely wrap a towel around it as you pull it free ;)
Remove internal spacer and like the pawls,springs and end capspacer you have put them somewhere safe
Holding hub/wheel in one hand you bash the axle from the freehub side and it will push out the axle,bearing and the other spacing in one go
After removing those bits from the axle using th same method as of the front and insert the axle to hammer out the main bearing. Repeat to remove that.
Reverse youll run into a problem trying to hold the main(driveside) bearing in place as you drift the other bearing with fitted axle through it. I use old bearings piled into the gap ,takes two and sits a tiny bit proud of the outer edge of the hub and allows you to hammer in the other side.
Its is very easy job to do and after doing the front the method is the same for the rear and that will take 1/2 the time



first 5-7 hammered
Really ? We can't tell ;) :p
 
Re:

Suspension and so easy (even the fatso are not hard, but I now use my fatso for bearing tools for bottom brackets, aka they crack like hell but make a good tool).

Clean it up and check for any cracks developing, these look early as they moved to extended cap dropout spacers 1994/5 so I'd guess around 1994? if you find your documents.

Then get it done.
 
This it :?

Little grubscrews on the sides of the spacers. Notorious for rounding off due to size so lube them first. Rounded can sometimes be removed with a small flatbladed screwdriver held in with maximum pressure.
Failing that just hammer the fkers off and correct the damage later ;) :LOL:


I really need to get something like a gopro so i can make little films of me showing you how :D
Appeals to my ego :LOL:
 

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Thanx Dyna-ti
Thats helpful to see it dis-assembled know what I'm aiming for now, no grub screws on mine, and no room to stick a screwdriver down the back to ease them off, starting to think wifes new carving knife shimmied in might be a real option. Destro... I mean dis-assembled pic's to follow ;)
 
Just to emphasise, be very careful not to hit the ends with a metal hammer. Always use a soft-faced hammer or a block of wood in between. I've rebuilt several of the lightweight hubs, they are very simple but take your time and don't bash hard. Otherwise you round the ends of the axle and can risk cracking the glue between the Alu shells and the Ti middle.
 
I use a deadblow hammer(Or any soft jaw hammer-not metal)
And the hope nylon support tool, which is best thing for the job, decades of reviews/tests etc.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hope-Nylon-W ... SwwH9d6W6v
Cheap and invaluable, I wouldnt service a hub without it.
 

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Re:

What I found worked really well on a particularly stubborn bigun recently was to place a small socket over the bit that goes in the fork leg but has a outside diameter small enough to go through the coloured collar. Then place it on the hub support that Dyna-ti referred to and it will then tap out the lower bearing as well.
 
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