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But they bolt to the top tube.
Or are a bodged modification to the dog collar
But they bolt to the top tube.
Or are a bodged modification to the dog collar
Have I set my brakes up wrong on my Kona ??
- Thread starter Woodyuk
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Re:
Thanks for all the replies....
Dog collar is original....
Have taken off the Onza chill pill
Raised the brakes one whole up
and works a little better but still looks weird from behind...
I had a plastic dog collar where it curvered around the frame so cable was straight but left it on the frame I sold as I prefered this metal one :facepalm:
Photos tomorrow of new setup.....
If anyone has a decent seat collar where the cable runs straight I am looking to buy one
Thanks for all the replies....
Dog collar is original....
Have taken off the Onza chill pill
Raised the brakes one whole up
and works a little better but still looks weird from behind...
I had a plastic dog collar where it curvered around the frame so cable was straight but left it on the frame I sold as I prefered this metal one :facepalm:
Photos tomorrow of new setup.....
If anyone has a decent seat collar where the cable runs straight I am looking to buy one
mrdryskull
Old School Hero
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Thats the right collar,,as stated,make sure the brakes are on the maximum tension (top) hole,,lose all that plastic tube,too much friction.
the collar doesnt have to be centred,rotating it can make for a smoother run to the brakes..Chill pill is good (I prefer the Avid Tridangle),the hanger shouldnt be in the middle of the stradle cable,use the tension adjustment screw to set brake clearance..(higher tension on right side).
The lower your stradle cable (closer to tire),more powerfull brakes,but mushier feel at lever..
I think your real problem is that plastic tube,,it should be just to protect the paint on the top tube,cut at both ends and free floating..
Thats the right collar,,as stated,make sure the brakes are on the maximum tension (top) hole,,lose all that plastic tube,too much friction.
the collar doesnt have to be centred,rotating it can make for a smoother run to the brakes..Chill pill is good (I prefer the Avid Tridangle),the hanger shouldnt be in the middle of the stradle cable,use the tension adjustment screw to set brake clearance..(higher tension on right side).
The lower your stradle cable (closer to tire),more powerfull brakes,but mushier feel at lever..
I think your real problem is that plastic tube,,it should be just to protect the paint on the top tube,cut at both ends and free floating..
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Collar looks perfect. Front cable outer enters the stop at a funny angle; is there much friction at that point? Might just be the camera angle.
I'd be looking at cable friction TBH, including (as has been said) that length of plastic along the top tube. I also swear by Jagwire Slick cables the difference is ridiculous.
I'd be looking at cable friction TBH, including (as has been said) that length of plastic along the top tube. I also swear by Jagwire Slick cables the difference is ridiculous.
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Whatever else you bodge with mismatched spring tensions, once you haul on that cable you're pulling everything over to the nds and twisting the rear wheel all out of shape. There's no way a brake can perform optimally with significantly more pressure being applied to one side of the rim.
I'm trying to imagine what an asymmetric straddle will do but it's past my bedtime...
Whatever else you bodge with mismatched spring tensions, once you haul on that cable you're pulling everything over to the nds and twisting the rear wheel all out of shape. There's no way a brake can perform optimally with significantly more pressure being applied to one side of the rim.
I'm trying to imagine what an asymmetric straddle will do but it's past my bedtime...
ted andkilde
Rocky Mountain Fan
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Hey guys, silly question, what is the plastic sheath for this application generally called? Searching for a short length for my own bike and my Googlefu is weak, all searches are coming back with standard cable housing.
Can you get away with commercial teflon or nylon pneumatic tubing?
Thanks, Ted
Can you get away with commercial teflon or nylon pneumatic tubing?
Thanks, Ted
ted andkilde":3r7bgr38 said:
Take a piece of SIS outer shifter housing the length you need. Slit the outer casing lengthwise. Peel it open. The inner wire casing will fall apart, leaving you with a piece of inner plastic sheathing. You can do the same with brake cable housing if you need a piece with a larger ID/OD. It's a bit more of a PITA unraveling the spiral inner metal casing. Easiest way I've found is to put one end in a vice, other end in vice grips, and pull.
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Here is a photo of the setup now... works better but still not happy ....
I thought most Kona had dog collars and I can not see how they could have used such a bad setup?
Going to try with a set of Odessey Straddle this weekend to see if it helps... If not then it might have to be V brakes
Also a photo of the earlier plastic hanger where it aligns the cable in the middle
Here is a photo of the setup now... works better but still not happy ....
I thought most Kona had dog collars and I can not see how they could have used such a bad setup?
Going to try with a set of Odessey Straddle this weekend to see if it helps... If not then it might have to be V brakes
Also a photo of the earlier plastic hanger where it aligns the cable in the middle
