Girvin Vector help and info please!

[foz]

I've always fancied a set of Girvin Vectors - no other reason than they look cool and are a bit different. I'm thinking about looking for a set for my parkpre (link in my sig), but don't really know the difference between the versions, if and where they usually fail, possible problems to look out for, etc.

I know they aren't going to be as good a fork as the modern rebas I have on the bike now, but since I'm trying not to start any more bike projects, I thought a fork project might be a good idea

I have a vague idea of fitting a reasonable spring/damper, maybe getting a disc mount fitted, and then either polishing a lot of painting to match the frame...

can anyone help with info and experience?

 

[02gf74]

Re:

Not hrard of any failures but i woukd expect wear to the pivots to become an issue, im not aware of there being teplaceable bearing to fix that, in fact from what i recall there are plain bushes.

Something to be aware of, and this apies to those fitted to 85 serirs is they use a spevial steerer and stem, 1 in so you are limited to frame choise, there is little adjustment to length so head tube length must match.

Ive seen one converted to disc with a clamp on adapter, probably a custom one.

 

[bartsince1975]

Re:

Only the early vectors have a 1 inch stearer tube. The later ones have a 1 inch tube with a 1 1/8 crown race, using a spacer at the top so fits in a 1 1/8 frame. There are still some webpages with info about these forks, user manuals, how to fit newer shox etc. do a search on this forum and you will find them. I have never heard of breaking forks, only thing that had problems was the original shox. The bearings are IGUS hard plastics:http://www.igus.com/iglidur you cannot buy them directly from their website so you wil need to search for a local supplier. They wear out but not as fast as the ones in a AMP fork, thanks to the larger diameter.

They look cool, servicing is not as hard as it seems (most fox forx are more complicated) and they are super plush.

http://nulifecycles.com/ sells some springs, risse racing might still sell air shox and even the elastomers are still available.

 

[elPedro666]

http://www.idriders.com/proflex/

Loads in here

 

[foz]

Thanks all! from what I gather, replacing the bushings (if they need it) and shock (definitely) should get a girvin working pretty well. I've seen rear shocks used - knowing little about suspension, especially suspension frames, I guess I'd need to find a rear shock of the right length - anything else I need to think about? or will any shock of the right length work?

my frame is a 19", I forge the HT length but it's neither very long or very short. 1 1/8" diameter steerer.

 

[singletrackmac]

I have a few proflexs, 2 to ride and others for parts and have a vector 2, vector AL, grivin crosslink and a nolleen crosslink.

These forks are very stiff and stiffer than any other fork from the 90's that I have ridden and stiffer than some modern forks with TA's. (I am 6'4, 240lb and they feel rock solid to me especially the crosslinks)

Because of this stiffness they track extremely well. And due to their "j" shaped axle path they are extremely sensitive. This along with the minimal stiction from the small shock makes them very plush. They definitely have a different ride then telescopic forks.

One thing to note is the j shaped axle path might feel a little weird at first since the axle actually moves back a little as it moves up. Great for flat and uphill terrain, not so great for steep DH terrain.

Vector 1:
-stem is part of the fork
-top and bottom links are not unified so adjustment of both will be required if the wheel comes out of alignment.
-You can adjust the axle path by turning the upper axle rod. You can make it more of a "j" path or more vertical and inbetween. The j path is very sensitive and great for small or medium bumps and flat or uphill terrain. More vertical path is best for larger bumps and going down hill and stiffens up the suspension kind of like a low speed compression adjustment.

Vector 2:
-stem is part of the fork
-more travel
-top link is unified but bottom link is not so if the wheel comes out of alighnment the bottom link will need to be adjusted.
-you an adjust the axle path same as the vector 1

Vector AL:
-same as vector 2 with more travel but you can run whatever stem you want.

Girvin crosslink and noleen crosslink:
-more travel
-you can run whatever stem
-top and bottom link are both unified
-as far as I can tell you cannot adjust the axle path

You can get custom tuned shocks made for these forks from links below.
http://www.risseracing.com/proflex.shtml
https://www.j6shocks.com/mountain-bike-shocks.html

I have elastomers on my vector2, a noleen nr2 on my vector AL, a noleen Nr1 on my girvin crosslink and a modified fox float coil on my nolleen crosslink. The noleen nr1 and nr2 are great. The nr2 has preload (along with the nr1) and has a rebound adjustment. That with the ability to change the axle path on the vector 2 gives it some fun on the trail adjustments There is a big difference in the forks performance when you adjust the axle path.

For fails, there was a recall on early carbon fiber girvin forks, some sort of recal on the vectors if you crashed it. Also my neighbor broke the upper axle rod on his vector 2 back in the late 90's on his 855. He said he was going pretty fast and It caused him to crash hard. He still has the bike and broken fork hanging in his garage. However, we live in Tahoe and the terrain is what you would call "chunky." He was on what is considered today to be a black diamond singletrack. These are cross country forks and I don't think suited for big chunk and rock gardens. I do think the crosslinks with the unified upper and lower links makes the fork stonger and stiffer and the upper axle rod would not break because of this, not sure.

As for maintanence, that iriders web site is full of all kinds of good info and manuals on the forks. I also have been able to find rebuild kits, seals, bushings and other parts for the forks on eBay.

Good luck with getting a fork! They are very fun to tinker with and a blast to ride.

 

[Spinsterboy]

I have a few proflexs, 2 to ride and others for parts and have a vector 2, vector AL, grivin crosslink and a nolleen crosslink.

These forks are very stiff and stiffer than any other fork from the 90's that I have ridden and stiffer than some modern forks with TA's. (I am 6'4, 240lb and they feel rock solid to me especially the crosslinks)

Because of this stiffness they track extremely well. And due to their "j" shaped axle path they are extremely sensitive. This along with the minimal stiction from the small shock makes them very plush. They definitely have a different ride then telescopic forks.

One thing to note is the j shaped axle path might feel a little weird at first since the axle actually moves back a little as it moves up. Great for flat and uphill terrain, not so great for steep DH terrain.

Vector 1:
-stem is part of the fork
-top and bottom links are not unified so adjustment of both will be required if the wheel comes out of alignment.
-You can adjust the axle path by turning the upper axle rod. You can make it more of a "j" path or more vertical and inbetween. The j path is very sensitive and great for small or medium bumps and flat or uphill terrain. More vertical path is best for larger bumps and going down hill and stiffens up the suspension kind of like a low speed compression adjustment.

Vector 2:
-stem is part of the fork
-more travel
-top link is unified but bottom link is not so if the wheel comes out of alighnment the bottom link will need to be adjusted.
-you an adjust the axle path same as the vector 1

Vector AL:
-same as vector 2 with more travel but you can run whatever stem you want.

Girvin crosslink and noleen crosslink:
-more travel
-you can run whatever stem
-top and bottom link are both unified
-as far as I can tell you cannot adjust the axle path

You can get custom tuned shocks made for these forks from links below.
http://www.risseracing.com/proflex.shtml
https://www.j6shocks.com/mountain-bike-shocks.html

I have elastomers on my vector2, a noleen nr2 on my vector AL, a noleen Nr1 on my girvin crosslink and a modified fox float coil on my nolleen crosslink. The noleen nr1 and nr2 are great. The nr2 has preload (along with the nr1) and has a rebound adjustment. That with the ability to change the axle path on the vector 2 gives it some fun on the trail adjustments There is a big difference in the forks performance when you adjust the axle path.

For fails, there was a recall on early carbon fiber girvin forks, some sort of recal on the vectors if you crashed it. Also my neighbor broke the upper axle rod on his vector 2 back in the late 90's on his 855. He said he was going pretty fast and It caused him to crash hard. He still has the bike and broken fork hanging in his garage. However, we live in Tahoe and the terrain is what you would call "chunky." He was on what is considered today to be a black diamond singletrack. These are cross country forks and I don't think suited for big chunk and rock gardens. I do think the crosslinks with the unified upper and lower links makes the fork stonger and stiffer and the upper axle rod would not break because of this, not sure.

As for maintanence, that iriders web site is full of all kinds of good info and manuals on the forks. I also have been able to find rebuild kits, seals, bushings and other parts for the forks on eBay.

Good luck with getting a fork! They are very fun to tinker with and a blast to ride.

Sorry for reviving this thread but I'm trying to fix up some Girvin XC's....are they the same as the crosslink? I'm trying to find the elastomers to get them working again...

 

[Tancrad]

This website might help.

https://www.suspensionforkparts.net/eshop/proflex/girvin-vector-1-2.html
I have a vector 2 and I'm trying to find more information about it. I'd like to swap out the Integrated stem linkage, to a part I've seen on some other. Girvin/noleen fork that allows you to put on your own stem. They are just aluminum arms that go from the top of the piston/spring/elastomer and clamps right on the steer tube. I'll probably make a post about it if anyone knows where to get parts