Gios Torino Super Record

Siemenmoens

Retro Newbie
Hi, I am new to this Forum. Reason i got here, is that i found this Gios Torino Super Record on the side of the road with a "Free" Sign. So i took it home and decided to restore it.

this is how i got it:


so now i am cleaning up all the parts, en have to decide if i should give him a paintjob (because there is more rust than i expected.)
 
Nice find


isd0.jpg
 
Update:


Does anyone have an Idea if this is easy cleanable, or should this be replaced?
vxgw.jpg


Did find rust under the Chrome on the Fork what should i do with this?
f6gs.jpg


ngp2.jpg


Cleaned:
jcpm.jpg



Rust:
shifter bolts were in bad shape:
v40f.jpg


d0wa.jpg


ozt1.jpg
 
It depends how much you want to spend and how original you want it to look. From doing a bit of research when I owned a Gios it seems that Gios themselves are the only people who can match the colour exactly and they would probably finish it off with genuine decals at a price but I would imagine a decent frame finisher could get the colour pretty close. The decals are available on ebay. The frames were also finished in white or red which , if you're not to fussy , may be easier to replicate.
As for the fork , it looks ok but if you get the frame refinished it would be worth getting the fork rechromed too.
Everything else looks tip top.
Great find , I'm totally jealous !!
 
Thanks for the feedback, i want it to be as original as possible.
So i found a painter that says he can paint it as the original.
Im gonna try to get some quotes for the re-chroming.

Have u got an idea for the rusted nipple-things
 
The Gods that govern serendipitous bicycle discoveries have smiled on you-(I bet it's your size,too) and left you with a time/money/skills/dedication equation to negotiate, as they are wont to do.

IMO on a thirty-year-old neglected bike, every component should be dismantled, cleaned, inspected, lubricated, reassembled. It looks like you've done most of it already, but I notice you haven't got the cranks off yet, so if you haven't already, and are able to, meet Lady Luck half-way by investing in a crank-extractor and a set of headset/BB spanners something like these:
<<<

Regarding paint and chrome, it depends on whether you want it to look like 'never left the showroom', or 'once neglected, now cared for'. I favour the latter, and would aim to preserve as much of the original finish as possible... not only for aesthetic reasons either. Others might favour blasting, repainting, new transfers, rechroming, etc.

Personally, I would strip it right down to the frame, (including removing BB, forks, and headset), and work on the rusty bits with a wire brush, fine wet-or-dry paper, etc, removing all flaking paint and chrome, and, once you have assured yourself that the tubes haven't rusted through anywhere, touch up with primer and paint. I would also clean up inside the tubes as far as possible.

I don't think anyone actually replaces rusty rim-eyelets (I may be wrong), but they can be cleaned up. To do a thorough job would entail removing the tyre from the rim and the rim from the wheel. If they are rusty on this side, chances are they are rusty under the tyre where the spoke-nipple seats as well. If it's the rear wheel get the sprocket-block off first. Clean up the rusty eyelets with wire-brush, etc. those stainless steel kitchen scourers are handy too. Satisfy yourself the eyelets are still structurally sound. The 'inside' of the eyelets, where the spoke-nipple seats, could be treated with some anti-corrosion product and/or painted to help prevent further oxidisation, obviously you don't want paint on the surface where the tub is glued. Then rebuild the wheel and true it. I guess if you don't want to dismantle the wheel you could do one eyelet at a time, removing the spoke-nipple, get the end of the spoke out of the eyelet, clean up the eyelet, replace the spoke and nipple. You would probably still need to true the wheel once you've done all the eyelets. If you do one at a time, it might be advisable to slacken off all the spokes a few turns first anyway..

Others probably have more efficient methods..
 
Wow thanks for the huge reply :)

about the frame, i do want to keep it as original as possible, but removing the rust and putting on spots of paint is IMO a bit cheap :p
this frame deserves the best. There is rust al over the frame, all small spots.

I think it's just surface corrosion on the rim-eyelets, i'm gonna try to clean them without disassembling the wheel.

crank removal is planned for this week, headset is partially removed only the parts that are shrinked in the frame are still there.

the only thing i can't do right now is removing the BB since i don't have the right tool.

Thanks for all the advice!
 
Good score !!! Yes to originality every time... All those scuffs/chips are part of the bikes history.. You'll be amazed at what you can achieve with some light resto and humbrol model paints :)

Look forward to updates :cool:
 
Hi,
What a find!
When I had my Gios Torino Super Record restored I put in a significant amount of time searching for suitable paint.
I found it very hard to match, as Gios historically used a particular type of blue that contained, I believe, some Cobalt based pigment which has since been deleted by the industry on safety grounds.
However someone on an American forum gave me a really good tip;
House of Kolor a West Coast American custom paint supplier, (I can probably find more details but I need to check back through emails tomorrow).
After more research I found some UK suppliers but I had to buy a full litre at quite a price.
I had ARGOS prepare and spray the frame and I sourced decals from Greg Softly at Cyclomondo in Australia. Nick Tythecott at LLoyds is also very good.
ARGOS were also very pleased with the colour and ended up buying the remaining paint from me, so they may still have some?
Give them a ring and ask Mark or Gary the proprieter.
Good luck with the restoration of a lovely bike.
Cheers,
Nick.
 
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