Front brake cable routes? Stuck

[TGR]

BobToo - yes - behind the bars.

Gitane - have you posted about which lever operates which brake? I note you have left to front - this is a subject of debate as it may be a 'European' style and some riders prefer this - there was a recent post about this. Could you take a pic of the top of the levers where the cable enters - the front bake lever looks a bit odd from the pic above although it may be the pic or my eyesight!

Richard

 

[GITANE80]

This is what I ended up with after being advised. Hope it helps.

Liking that blue!
Thanks

the brake adjuster barrel that is on the brake arm should be screwed nearly all the way down before attaching the cable & nipping it up then fine tuning can happen after - that's how I have always done it so as the brake block wears you just turn the barrel a tad.

Thats one of the problems no matter how much I adjusted it made no difference.
Its always wound down before I clamp the cable.

BobToo - yes - behind the bars.

Gitane - have you posted about which lever operates which brake? I note you have left to front - this is a subject of debate as it may be a 'European' style and some riders prefer this - there was a recent post about this. Could you take a pic of the top of the levers where the cable enters - the front bake lever looks a bit odd from the pic above although it may be the pic or my eyesight!

Richard

I've made it simple sitting on the bike left lever makes contact with front brake/ right lever makes contact inline with rear brakes
The levers aren't positioned right yet they move all the time, but here is a few more pics to show what I did.
I could ride with more flex in the brake cables and route more freely, but I wanted less obstruction and cleaner lines for my little one just in case she got caught up in the cables hence tighter wrap to the head stem?
Only rule I know is both have to be placed one side or the other never one before and after drop bars
Thanks for the help!
Jason

 

[torqueless]

OP- there is no reason to twist brake cables around eachother like that. Take a look at TGR/History man photos. Their brake cables have been allowed to follow their inclination- let each of them find their own unrestricted route from lever to caliper. Your rear cable is being asked to negotiate an impossibly tight curve by being bent around the front cable under the stem like that. Brake cables move as you apply pressure to the lever, and a sure way of ending up with sticky operation is by routing them in a way that prevents them from doing so. Make sure to grease the cables in their outers too.

 

[GITANE80]

OP- there is no reason to twist brake cables around eachother like that. Take a look at TGR/History man photos. Their brake cables have been allowed to follow their inclination- let each of them find their own unrestricted route from lever to caliper. Your rear cable is being asked to negotiate an impossibly tight curve by being bent around the front cable under the stem like that. Brake cables move as you apply pressure to the lever, and a sure way of ending up with sticky operation is by routing them in a way that prevents them from doing so. Make sure to grease the cables in their outers too.

I appreciate exactly what you have said and agree but my 8yer old might need less cables in the way!
Yes its more difficult, but I've tried the brakes and it seems okay.
Once she is on the road I can make a few more judgement calls and if freeing them up I will change them I might be over thinking this but its a test bed for now until its finished.
The cables are Shimano and I thought they came pre-greased on the outer cables?
Jay

 

[torqueless]

I understand your concerns- If it sets your mind at rest, In over forty years of riding (and occasionally flying off, at various angles) bikes with exclusively such unrestricted brake cable runs, I've yet to experience any incident of getting any part of my anatomy caught up in the cables. My personal preference is to keep them as short as possible over the bars. The rear cable obviously needs securing to the top-tube. IMO you are better off without those double lever extensions at any age. I always grease new cables by default, 'cause i'm never certain that they have been greased, and I know how they get when they haven't been greased..

 

[GITANE80]

I understand your concerns- If it sets your mind at rest, In over forty years of riding (and occasionally flying off, at various angles) bikes with exclusively such unrestricted brake cable runs, I've yet to experience any incident of getting any part of my anatomy caught up in the cables. My personal preference is to keep them as short as possible over the bars. The rear cable obviously needs securing to the top-tube. IMO you are better off without those double lever extensions at any age. I always grease new cables by default, 'cause i'm never certain that they have been greased, and I know how they get when they haven't been greased..

Thanks for the advice and I'm sure I'll reroute it again!
I'll grease up the outer cable a bit can't hurt TBF.
I've got a feeling the spring is done for and I've got a spare caliper so I'll mount that one and see the difference.

 

[Midlife]

I have a personal hatred of those "suicide" levers from having to set them up in the 70s............plain non-aero levers would by my choice as the extentions under the tops of the bars are generally hopeless.

Shaun

 

[cycletothesea]

Personally, I'd always run the levers 'in front' of (under) the handlebars, they just seem to be in the way otherwise when I'm resting my hands on top of bars. Don't know whether one way or another can be called 'correct'. I just let the cable take the most natural route. I've also seen many bikes with enormous loops of cables 12-20 inches above the handlebars, but can't understand why they need to be like that.

 

[GITANE80]

Great thanks for the tips guys!
I've managed to change out a better spare caliper and it was binding less so I worked out the rear brake lever was sticking on new washers so sprayed some GT and she works a treat now full stopping power from both ends now!

I've got the derailleur and chain to work on next, but could not find the chain splitter so ordered a Park tool CT-5 was it smaller gear cog first or larger one first?

 

[TGR]

Hi Gitane,


I do not understand your question, could you elaborate please?

Richard