Freehub disassembly tool

[gmtfd]

Does anyone here know where I can get the equivalent of the discontinued Shimano TL-FK40 for disassembling freehubs?

There's an American chap who makes them but only ships within the US. It looks like a Polish company called Bitul used to make them, but no longer does.

 

[Tootyred]

I cut mine out of a 1/2" cheapo ebay socket. I will find it and give you the size you need. Think it was £2 posted!

 

[Tootyred]

21mm 1/2" socket......then just attack with angle grinder. Made this as an experiment, probably 20 years ago to see if it worked......hence it was not that neat.......but ive never made a good one as this has never failed!

 

[marc two tone]

21mm 1/2" socket......then just attack with angle grinder. Made this as an experiment, probably 20 years ago to see if it worked......hence it was not that neat.......but ive never made a good one as this has never failed!

The man!
I've never bothered disassembling a freehub body. I've wondered if the removable cup thing gets pinched up as tight as, or is it necessary to balance the pressure against the bearing as you would for hubs and headsets?
Not sure if theres a 'how to'.
Would you, could you? Many thanks.

 

[retrobate]

The man!
I've never bothered disassembling a freehub body. I've wondered if the removable cup thing gets pinched up as tight as, or is it necessary to balance the pressure against the bearing as you would for hubs and headsets?
Not sure if theres a 'how to'.
Would you, could you? Many thanks.

From memory its done up reasonably tight and the bearing adjustment is done with shims.

 

[Tootyred]

Exactly. Theres a stack of very thin washers inside that set the bearing pressure when you tighten it. The " nut" is not as tight as you night think.

Sometimes....and it is sometimes....if you have a wobbly freehub, removing the very thinnest washer will tighten it back up, if wear has been the problem. But, its not a given as the race wear can be quite elliptical due to the direction pressure is applied/ released as you peddle....i assume. Also care needs to be taken as this action essential moves the outer body closer to the face of the hub and if you remove a thicker washer, it can rub on some hubs.....really not good.

If you have really bad one, just take it apart and see how it works, there are just 2 rows of bearings, that are fiddly, but can be replaced....buy pointy tweezers.

The pawls get stuck too, which stops them locking ( result is a free spinning cassette in both directions!), this is often due to corrosion or gunk. The pawls come out by simply releasing the round wire spring clip....its also the bit that springs them outwards to engage the ratchet teeth.

Just remember the pawls really want the very thinnest smear of the very thinnest grease, or you will stick them shut! And don't over load the bearings or it will migrate to the pawls when you reassemble.

Why not have a play, if its scrap, what you got to loose! Ive rescued many freehubs and put them back into working action.

 

[gmtfd]

Why not have a play, if its scrap, what you got to loose! Ive rescued many freehubs and put them back into working action.

That's what I like to hear! Cheers for the tips on the tool. I've heard it can also be done with a Dremel, having just bought one I may give it a try.

 

[TheAntsPants]

Ebay?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313268822162?hash=item48f046e092:g:gSEAAOSwj8VccQX4

 

[Tootyred]

Ummmmmm. Pure chineesium alloy. Oh no hang on its stainless.....ideal for cycle repairs near a nuclear reactor or whilst having an mri scan.

But good to know somebody's making them again.

 

[gmtfd]

Thanks Ants, I’d seen that tool but for some reason hadn’t realised it was what I was looking for. I’ve ordered one from a UK seller for £7, for that price it’s got to be worth a try (although it looks like the only stainless bit is the rod!).